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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Blok
From NW over boulders to the blocks, by crack and chimney in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šarkan
East crack and wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Blok
Via route no. 1 to the blocks and along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šarkan
From N by cracks to the plateau and ví. wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-
Růžová
By wall between routes Bob. crack and Dynamo 180 to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Overhang
6
Růžová
Via Dynamo 180 route to the first bolt. Diagonally right (2nd bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Růžová
By corner, chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6+
Růžová
Right part of the wall to the bolt. Wall slightly left (2nd bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Růžová
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Růžová
Left part of the wall over the point into the crack and by the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Růžová
Slab right of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Meluzína
From the north by chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Meluzína
South edge and left by wall to the ring. Wall to the right to the edge and higher left by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Meluzína
Via route Třpytivý sen to the ring, traverse by wall left to the west edge and along it … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Poslední kámen
UIAA grade 6+. In the East right part of the valley wall by crack to the balcony (ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zvonička
UIAA grade 5. From the SW fore-rock by wall along the left edge, higher up right to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zvonička
Right valley (south) edge 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Bobek
UIAA grade 2. Description missing. Rock Climbing
5
Klekánice
From the SE fore-rock, up the wall along the left edge, higher up to the right along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký policajt
UIAA cl. 5+. From the terrace in the intermediate tower along the S edge to the window… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
UIAA cl. 4. Above the gully, directly up the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
UIAA cl. 4. From the N, up the overhanging wall to a small platform. Through the gully,… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková
UIAA cl. 5. From the base, up the S wall to the pulpit, up the wall over two overhangs… Rock Climbing
5
Paroháč
UIAA cl. 5. From the upper edge of the gorge, traverse and crack to its end. Step over… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Monument
Through the middle of the valley wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Titanic
From standing, to the left of A, finally Japanese.
6
Upír
UIAA cl. 6. In the middle of the SW wall, down along the ledge, through the chimney into… Rock Climbing
2
Upír
UIAA cl. 2. From S, through the chimney and to the left through another chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5
Upír
UIAA cl. 5. Behind the E corner, through the narrow crack in the flake to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
4
Pinďa
UIAA cl. 4. Up the right part of the valley wall. Rock Climbing

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