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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Šimpanz
Rock Climbing
4+
Šimpanz
cl. UIAA 5 From blocks on the steep side in the ledge to the right on the pillar. Rock Climbing
4+
Šimpanz
Rock Climbing
4+
Šimpanz
cl. UIAA 5From the E edge along the ledge down under the corner crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing
2
Hanička
Rock Climbing
4-
Hanička
Rock Climbing
2+
Hanička
Chimney between the tower and Lopuch to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hanička
Along the right bottom edge (K) and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Růženec
Overhanging crack from below, over a ring onto a ledge (clock). Rightwards along a flake… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Fleška
Via the Pamlsek route to the ring. Step right and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Fleška
Along the southern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Biskupská čepice
The start is at the right (northern) downhill edge, up the wall (ring) into the hollow.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Kazatelna
Through the center of the NE wall (4 bolts) to the shelf. Traverse right to the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
At the south edge, a crack to the footbridge, then left and up the wall to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kazatelna
To the left of the "Edge of Friends" route, an overhanging corner crack under a large… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
7
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
2
Kazatelna
From the NE, up the crack between the Pulpit and the Altar into the gorge. Transition to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2+
Kazatelna
From the SW, up the chimney and face slightly diagonally left to the pillar, Transition… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
7
Kazatelna
With an edge (ring) on the balcony “Ways to Heaven”. Through the cave on the right onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
3
Kazatelna
From the large balcony of the "Southwest Route", face diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5
Oltář
Center of the NW face (ring) to the crack of the "Black Edge" route and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Oltář
Near the northern edge, up the chimney, then stemming to the ledge, and in it, face… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4+
Oltář
Along the west edge (ring) to the ledges. In them, down under the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Oltář
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Oltář
By the "Old Route" chimney to the Pulpit into the gorge. Along the ledge to the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Oltář
By the Old Route to the Pulpit into the gorge between the Altar and the Pulpit. Face to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Biskup
From the 2nd ring, traverse left in the ledge and up the chimney to the terrace. Face n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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