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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Dětská věž
UIAA cl. 2. From the high gorge through a narrow chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Taxikárna
To the left valley (west) edge by a shallow depression to the 1st circle. By the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bludička
UIAA cl. 6. From the NW fore-rock by stepping onto the platform. By crack onto the pillar… Rock Climbing
6
Bludička
UIAA cl. 6. From the NW fore-rock by crack over the overhang and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7+
Patník
UIAA cl. 7+. From NE by the wall diagonally right to the circle. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
7+
Patník
UIAA cl. 7+. From SE by crack (circle) and wall into the ledge, in it traverse beyond the… Rock Climbing
4
Bludička
UIAA cl. 4. From the fore-rock along the S edge to the block. By crossing and by the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Bludička
UIAA cl. 3. From SE from the fore-rock by chimney and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vodní skála
Start at a strong fir tree near the barely noticeable right edge of the wall. Up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
3
Vodní skála
Start behind a strong tree, about 1.5 m to the right of a prominent depression (Hastrman… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Saxifrága
Start in the corner down at the right edge of the rock. Up the muddy corner (slings) to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4
Vodní skála
Start at a strong spruce tree in the left part of the wall. Up the wall to a muddy ledge … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Vodní skála
The ascent leads in the lower half of the wall through a prominent depression leading… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
3
Saxifrága
Start on the fore-rock at a strong spruce tree. Up the middle of the wall (slings).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
1
Saxifrága
Rocks of the Czech Republic, CHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
2
Hlavní skála
Along muddy steps under an overhanging corner, through which (slings) upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Hlavní skála
The ascent leads through a prominent gray-black overhanging pillar in the right part of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Hlavní skála
Up the corner (slings) and by crack to the right (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Hlavní skála
Start to the right of the chimney. Up a smooth green small wall to the right of a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Hlavní skála
Up the pillar to a small platform and up the corner (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Hlavní skála
The route follows a distinctive interrupted crack. Start at the beech tree. Up the green… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Hlavní skála
Access to the fore-rock left of the chimney. Up the center of the pillar to the small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Hlavní skála
Up the broken wall (slings) to the ring and slightly from the left over the overhang.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Hlavní skála
Left-trending gully to the piton, up the chimney to the right over the overhang (slings)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
2
Hlavní skála
Up the chimney easily. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Havráně
Up the East edge via hourglass and 'chobot' (proboscis/rock trunk) directly along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Holoubata
From the East Edge, traverse left into the SE wall (hourglass) and follow the 'Vivat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Čapí věžička
Rock Climbing
4
Čapí hnízdo
Approach from SW from the lowest point of the valley wall. Through the wall to a low…
7/7+
Šimpanz
Through the middle of the valley wall over the 1st K to the 2nd K (or left through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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