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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Žebrácký velmož
In the middle of the NE wall, by a corner crack and chimney to an embedded block. Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žebrácký velmož
Through the plateau (SW) chimney to the wedged block. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Košíček
Through the middle of the SE face to the ledge and traverse right along it to the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Brahmapútra
From the E, up the wall over 2 rings to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Brahmapútra
In the valley (E) wall, via the Chimney to the pillar and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Brahmapútra
Through the left part of the slab on the south-facing slope, over a ring into the gap… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Brahmapútra
From the W, via the twin chimney through the hole and higher up as Vomňouťák to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brahmapútra
In the valley wall, to the right, via the retreating crack (shared ring) and chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Banga-Chang
Up the plateau wall, via the small chimney and gully to the pillar. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Banga-Chang
At the SE edge, up the wall (ring) to the ledge and to the right (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Brahmapútra
In the valley wall to the right of route Vomňouťák, via the crack over a shared ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2
Brahmapútra
On the plateau side over the blocks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jak
From Banga-Changa via a short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jak
To the right of the E edge via the basin to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Joščik
From W via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Joščik
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jongsong
Left of the north edge via aid climbing, up the wall (ring) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jetík
West wall over the ledge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Jeti
Middle of the valley wall (ring) up the wall left to the edge and along it (5 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jongsong
NW wall to the ledge, along it and up the wall to the right to the ring. Right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jongsong
SE wall and crack to the end. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Himalájská
Left part of the SE wall to the left to the 1st ring. Aid climbing, left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jongsong
SW chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jongsong
NE crack to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nepálská
Along the edge to the detached block. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Himalájská
SE wall (from the Nepalese route) diagonally right to the balcony. Narrow gully crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Nepálská
Left of the Northwest Route through a depression to the ledge, aid climbing and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Himalájská
From SW via chimney to the block, overhang and traverse right along the wall to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Himalájská
In the SE wall via a crack to the pillar (1st ring). Left up the wall to a small pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Tambor
Left in the valley wall via chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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