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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Blecha
From SE via an interrupted crack to the balcony. Via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
8-/8
Blecha
From the SW fore-rock via the wall to the right (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blecha
Between Blecha and Hidden Peak via a corner crack to the gap between towers and right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Blecha
Via the corner crack to the right of c. Small crack to the end, left into St. c. and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rododendron
From the S edge to the left (ring) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Rododendron
Via the curved crack (ring) to the left to the edge and along it over another 4 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Rododendron
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž Herberta Tichého
NE crack to the widening and along the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sinjolču
South wall to the left (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sinjolču
Left of the south edge along the wall to the ledge and right along the wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Herberta Tichého
Valley (south) wall to the ledge, left along the wall, a small rock edge and a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sinjolču
Via the route 'Spára' (Crack) to Herbert Tichý Tower into the saddle. With substantial … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Buldok
From W via the chimney and along the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Herberta Tichého
From SW via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dudh kosí
From the inner pass-through area (from NE), from the block via a crack, a small rock edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hidden peak
Via the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Dudh kosí
From SW via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hidden peak
Before entering the chimney of the Kavčí chimney route, to the right by an inclined crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Hidden peak
To the right of the start of the Studená cesta (Cold Route), via the corner crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Hidden peak
Via the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Hidden peak
From the valley side, via the corner crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hidden peak
From the NW from the inner space, via the chimney and corner crack over the wedged block… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hidden peak
To the right of the valley (southern) edge, via the crack and fissure to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
4
Hidden peak
The entry is in the inner corner on the SE side of the tower. Through the inner chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Mustagh Tower
To the left of the southern edge, up the wall to the 1st ring. Via the crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hidden peak
Via the chimney and western edge and wall (3 rings) and along the gully n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Mustagh Tower
In the middle of the SW wall, up the wall over 3 rings and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Mustagh Tower
To the right on the SW side of the tower, up the wall to a block. Left along the wall… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mustagh Tower
In the western wall, up the groove (1st ring), wall and crack (2nd ring) over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Palácový pes
In the N wall, left along a receding crack (ring) to the gap between the towers and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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