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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Dhaulágiri
From the NE via a chimney to the plateau, then via a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Dhaulágiri
Right part of the South face (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Dhaulágiri
The ascent starts from the gorge below the left part of the NW face. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dhaulágiri
To the right on the NE side of the tower via a double crack, then right via a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Dalajláma
North ridge via 4 rings to the boulder, then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dalajláma
As Old Route on Dhaulagiri to the plateau (also by descent from Dhaulagiri), traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Čhogolisa
From Makalusa. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čhogolisa
By crossing from Changabang. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čhangabang
From Chogolisa, a short descent, step over, and up the face n. v. (likely "onto the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čhangabang
Between Changabang and Chogolisa via opposition and chimney for about seven meters.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čhogolisa
From the NW (below the rappel) via the chimney or to the right along the ledges to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Čhangabang
Through the chimney of DKH Route to the opposition, then by overhang and face n. v. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Čhangabang
From Chogolisa. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hlodavec
Up the NW edge (start from the right via a small pinnacle) over 5 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čhangabang
From the N corner in the holes, traverse diagonally left to the 1st ring (also possible… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Hlodavec
By jumping from the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pimpršlukova stěna
Up the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Pimpršlukova stěna
To the right of the route Gorbachev's Fall, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Skřítek Racochejl
From E to the right onto the edge, then up it n. v. (likely "onto the summit" or "to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pimpršlukova stěna
In the valley face, to the right of the edge, up the face through holes, 3 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pimpršlukova stěna
Up the right crack widening into a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Pimpršlukova stěna
Up the middle narrow crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Skřítek Racochejl
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Skřítek Racochejl
Up the right valley edge n. v. (likely "onto the summit" or "to the top"). Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Pimpršluk
From Pimpršluk's face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Skřítek Racochejl
Up the valley face over the pyrite (or 'kyz' - likely a specific feature) and left along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Skřítek Racochejl
Up the SE face, to the right along the S edge n. v. (likely "onto the summit" or "to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pimpršluk
From SE (from the gorge between Pimpršluk and Vajgl) by opposition into the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Posvátné území
Up the valley face, higher up the edge over the ring n. v. (likely "onto the summit" or … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Pimpršluk
From N via the crack and chimney n. v. (likely "onto the summit" or "to the top"). Rock Climbing Textile belay

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