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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Ama Dablam
Via the SE chimney to the fore-summit and through the wide crack to the plateau. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kharta Phu
To the left of Monsoon Route, through the chimney to the balcony. Follow Monsoon Route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kharta Phu
Via the SE wall (2 rings) to the plateau. Up the wall from the right over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Kharta Phu
The ascent starts in the northern corner. Through the chimney and crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čhomolungma
From the initial crack of the Old Route, ascend the wall rightwards to the bolt. With… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čhomolungma
In the valley (SW) wall, via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čhomolungma
The ascent is in the north corner. Along the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Čhomolungma
Along the west edge (ring) to the ring c. 'No hole into the world', through it without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Čhomolungma
From the summit of Nuptse, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čhomolungma
From the chimney of the Old Route, traverse left to the balcony and via a small chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Čhomolungma
Along the blunt west edge and the wall (3 rings) to the hole c. 'No hole into the world',… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čhomolungma
West face, edge and gully (3 rings), higher up like "No hole into the world" to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nupce
The ascent is identical to the Old Route on Chomolungma. From the chimney, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Nupce
To the right on the NE side of the tower (in the recess) via the right corner crack below… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Nupce
To the left of the 'Right Corner' route, via the corner crack below the overhang and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Nupce
From Chomolungma, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Nupce
In the middle of the NE face, along the crack to the ledge and left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Broad peak
Left valley edge (ring), wall (2nd ring) and a small pillar into the recess (3rd ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Broad peak
Up the narrow NW face and along the small pillar (ring) to the balcony. Via the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Broad peak
Through the middle of the valley wall over six rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Broad peak
Near the north edge, through the chimney to the pillar. To the right via the corner crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Nupce
Between Nuptse and Broad Peak via the chimney into the suspended gorge on the NW side of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Broad peak
The ascent starts on the SE side of the tower (from Sharpa). Traverse the wall left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Broad peak
To the right in the SW face, up the wall to the 4th ring, from the right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Broad peak
Between Broad Peak and Nuptse via the left part of the chimney, higher up via a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Broad peak
Between Broad Peak and Nuptse via the chimney into the widening. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dhaulágiri
Via the West route to the small platform. Along the crack to its end and right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dhaulágiri
Between Dhaulagiri and Sharpa via a crack or wall to the rib and a crack to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dhaulágiri
From the inner space between Dhaulagiri and Gasherbrum via a stem and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Dhaulágiri
In the south face to the left of c. Morseovka over the clock to the right to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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