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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Křemeňáci
Left crack in the NE wall to the ring. From the left, up the wall to the balcony and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Polská věž
From the plateau side, traverse into the valley and overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Křemeňáci
From the east, crack and wall into the hole. Through the passage into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nanda Devi
Via the plateau wall (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ametrin
Via the East Ridge, at the top from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ametrin
Via the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nanda Devi
Via the SW face diagonally left to the valley edge to the hourglass. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nanda Devi
From the valley side, via the wall over the overhang and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž Svena Hedina
At the right valley edge, via a crack under the overhang and left up the wall to the ring… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Svena Hedina
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Svena Hedina
Via the right part of the plateau wall to the balcony and up the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Věž Svena Hedina
From SW from the small pillar, step over, traverse the wall left and up to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž Svena Hedina
In the right part of the W face from the balcony to the ring. Slightly right, higher left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Věž Svena Hedina
Via the left part of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Věž Svena Hedina
Left of route Atlantida (behind the edge from the intermediate tower) via the southeast… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čik
To the right of the North Ridge, by stemming against the Kulagangri pillar to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čik
The ascent starts in the SE gorge. Stemming to the hole, step over and along the ridge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-
Věž Svena Hedina
In the middle of the East Face to the ring and to the edge (2 rings). Up the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čik
Via the NW chimney (between the tooth and the Kulagangri pillar) to the pillar. Overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Kulagangri
From the SE, via jumps and block walls to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kulagangri
From the NE, from the block via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kangdu
From the through corridor between Kangdu and Kulagangri, step over the stone and ascend… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kangdu
From the massif (from the rappelling tree from Chomolhari) step over and descend the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kangdu
7 meters left of the route "Joke", from the boulders via an overhanging corner crack to… Rock Climbing Spare Route
7+/8-
Dvorská
Via Belzebub's variant to the 2nd ring, directly up the wall to the 2nd ring of Devil's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
Middle of the NE wall (ring) to the 1st ring of the Devil's Edge route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
11
Kangdu
Along the edge over five rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Dvorská
Right of "The Neverending Story" along a blunt edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
From the high pre-rock, descend via the chimney to a ledge, then right along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Dvorská
Left part of the NW wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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