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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Horní sektor
Along the edge of the small wall, over the edge of the overhang Rock Climbing
8-
Horní sektor
center of the overhang through the depression Rock Climbing
7+
Horní sektor
overhang left, then small wall Rock Climbing
6+
Horní sektor
left part of the wall Rock Climbing
7-
Horní sektor
right part of the wall Rock Climbing
7+
Horní sektor
edge Rock Climbing
8-
Horní sektor
overhang right Rock Climbing
4+
Horní sektor
corner Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Horní sektor
traverse from left to right Rock Climbing
6+
Horní sektor
via the wall - without the corner, from the slab to the left Rock Climbing
8
Horní sektor
directly via the wall Rock Climbing
6+
Horní sektor
directly via the wall Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7
Horní sektor
directly via the wall Rock Climbing
7-
Dolní sektor
via the pillar/nose Rock Climbing
7
Dolní sektor
over the tip of the overhang Rock Climbing
6-
Dolní sektor
via the corner and indentation Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Dolní sektor
via the wall Rock Climbing
9+/10-
Dolní sektor
via the wall Rock Climbing
8-
Dolní sektor
through the middle of the overhang Rock Climbing
9-
Dolní sektor
along the right edge over the overhang, then up the wall section along the right edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Matlák
To the right in the N wall directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Dolní sektor
via the pillar/nose through the middle of the wall section Rock Climbing
7-
Dolní sektor
from left to right Rock Climbing
5
Matlák
Via the left valley (east) ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hanesák
Via the plateau (northeast) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Matlák
From the E via the chimney, higher traverse right along the ledge to the north ridge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sobec
Via the valley wall over the belly (ring) and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Matlák
Via the chimney in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hobit
Via the low plateau wall at an exposed position. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hobit
Via the left part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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