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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Trpasličí skála
From the center of the traverse up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Trpasličí skála
Unknown climbers up the SW face to the summit. (below the rappel) Rock Climbing
6
Trpasličí skála
From the W edge, up the face into the overhanging crack and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Trpasličí skála
Right of the pillar near the NE face and along the crack to the ledge. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Trpasličí skála
Finger crack and up the face along it to the ledge. Take the 'Snow White's Lacing' route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Trpasličí skála
The start is to the left of the N edge. Up the face diagonally right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Šiša Palma
Left part of the NE face along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šiša Palma
Right part of the NE face, higher up through the middle or right via holes to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Trpasličí skála
Left of the W edge, up the face and a diagonal chimney to the left towards the N edge. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Michalin masiv
Along the S edge (3x threads and knot) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Michalin masiv
Up the center of the SE face to the second ledge, traverse right to the edge and take the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Šiša Palma
Up the prominent edge (sling) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Šiša Palma
Right part of the SE face to the ring. Up the face (thread) to the 2nd ring. Directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Šiša Palma
To the left of the S edge, via the ring, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Vorlosup
Start at the W edge, traverse right and take the 'Goose Cackling' route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Gwak
Directly up the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Vorlosup
Start to the right of the S edge, then along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hranáč
Up the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Hranáč
Along the North edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Hranáč
From the massif by a jump to the ledge, higher up like the Northwest Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hranáč
Up the middle of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3+
Za rohem
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3+
Za rohem
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Hranáč
Along the right part of the NW wall along the edge to the ledge. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Hranáč
From the start of Slimácká, traverse the wall to the left to the North edge below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Hranáč
To the left of the East edge, traverse the wall to the right behind the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5-
Za rohem
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Za rohem
Rock Climbing
4
Za rohem
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Za rohem
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing

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