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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Vrba
Through the chimney in the SE wall to the pillar and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vrba
Via the SW wall of the pillar through the hole and crack to the ring. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Rybník
Via the central pillar in the NE wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Rybník
From the S via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rybník
From the tourist path from the stairs, SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Rybník
In the left part of the SW wall via a system of chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rybník
Wall along the E edge to the right to small overhangs and via them to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rybník
Left of the N edge via the wall to the 1st ring, crack to the ledge (2nd ring) and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Rybník
The approach is on the tourist path at the stone bridge. Traverse the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Rybník
SE wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pilíře u Hladké
Up the NE wall of the right pillar to the balcony and right up the wall over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pilíře u Hladké
Up the SW wall of the right pillar to the ledge and to the ring. Up the 'sokolík' (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Pilíře u Hladké
Unknown climbers: From the summit of Hladká, step across the chimney to the pillar, then… Rock Climbing
5
Pilíře u Hladké
Through the middle of the N wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+/8-
Pilíře u Hladké
Through the middle of the SE wall of the left pillar over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kateřina
Via the Bočná na Trosky route to the end of the crack. Up the groove below the summit,… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Kateřina
Via the Komín na Trosky route to the NW ledge. Climb through the window into the saddle… Rock Climbing
6-
Klíč
From the start of the Klíčová hrana route, step right past the edge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kateřina
Along the South ridge below the summit, traverse right and via the Žlábkem route to the… Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
4-
Klíč
Left of the South ridge, via the crack onto the block, then onto the small balcony of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Klíč
Along the West ridge to the ledge. Via the Pastva pro soby route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Klíč
From the fore-summit below the North ridge, up the wall along the edge, higher up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Klíč
Middle of the SW wall diagonally left to the ledge, up the small chimney under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Klíč
Northwest wall and crack to the ring. Diagonally right up the wall to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Klíč
Southwest wall, via the groove and crack to the small balcony. Via the corner to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Klíč
Right part of the SE wall to the ring. Left along the wall over the small balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Klíč
Left part of the SE wall via the ring to the pre-summit. Via the SE wall route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Výří brána
Along the North ridge up the wall to the 1st ring. Left along the wall over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Výří brána
From the South, up the wall over the overhang (ring) to the clock and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Výří brána
Right part of the SW wall to the ledges, traverse right on them and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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