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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Lokr
Along the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Lokr
From the White Massif on the SE side, descend the face and traverse/jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lokr
SE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+
Skrytá stěna
SW face (slightly diagonally left, also possible directly or diagonally right) to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8/8+
Mys dobré naděje
Up the face along the W edge, over 2 rings to the ledge, and along the edge to the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Skrytá stěna
Via the 'Evening Sorrows' route to the 2nd ring. Directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9/9+
Mys dobré naděje
Up the face behind the tree to the bolt, and diagonally left to the ring of the 'Domino'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8+/9-
Mys dobré naděje
From the left edge, slightly right up the face to the ring, then slightly left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8+/9-
Mys dobré naděje
Via the 'Conference of the Dumb' route to BH, traverse the face left to the ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Mys dobré naděje
From the right edge, diagonally left up the face to the 1st ring, and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8+/9-
Mys dobré naděje
Via the 'Trips into Dreams' route to the ledge, and from the ledge above the 2nd ring, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Devětadevadesátka
From the NE, up the wall via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
6+/7-
Devětadevadesátka
Up the SW wall to a balcony to a ring and up the wall to the sub-summit. Left to the main… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Devětadevadesátka
From the NE terrace, up a crack to a ledge and left along it to the 'hodiny' (hourglass).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Devětadevadesátka
From the E edge, up the wall via a ring to a small balcony, traverse right in the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Devětadevadesátka
From the SW, up a crack next to the chimney to a ring, up the wall left to holes and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Devětadevadesátka
From the upper side, up a corner to a ring. Traverse left onto the N edge and follow it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stovka
Up the center of the NE wall via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Stovka
Left of the E edge, up the wall to a ledge, traverse right beyond the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Devětadevadesátka
Up the wall along the N edge, higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Devětadevadesátka
From the NE or SW, up a chimney to the sub-summit, then via a crack and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Stovka
Right of the E edge, up the wall diagonally left to the 1st ring at the edge. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stovka
Up the center of the SE wall via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Stovka
Along the detached pillar forming the N edge, via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
3
Celda
From the SW, up the wall to the right under the overhang and through a corner in the SE… Rock Climbing
5
Celda
Left of the Over the Abyss route, traverse into the NE wall and follow it (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vašek
In the right part of the SE wall, via the chimney or by bridging against the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Vašek
In the right part of the valley wall, ascend and up the gully to the ledge. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vašek
Up the SW wall to the small balcony and traverse right to the edge towards the clock. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Nic
Through the chimney between the massifs to the summit. Rock Climbing

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