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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Obecní pivovar – spasitel
Center of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Obecní pivovar – spasitel
Up the crack in the corner to the wedged boulder, higher up the garden wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Obecní pivovar – spasitel
Up the chimney from S to the gap between towers, higher up left via a side chimney to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Obecní pivovar – spasitel
From the massif on the right, descend to the pulpit, cross over to the plateau edge, and… Rock Climbing
3
Obecní pivovar – spasitel
Eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Meteorologická
Up the face to the right of the edge to the ledge, where you traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vochmelka
In the NW face 3 rings along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Meteorologická
Along the valley edge (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Meteorologická
In the right part of the NW face over the ring of the Occlusion Front via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Meteorologická
Up the face below the hanging chimney (ring) to the ledge. Via the 'Occlusion Front'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Meteorologická
Up the chimney in the corner for 6m to the 1st ring. Left via the face to the pedestal,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Berunka
To the left of the corner via cracks to the 1st ring, right to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Berunka
Through the SW corner under the overhang, traverse right on the ledge to the balcony, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Meteorologická
Up the resounding/hollow pedestal to the overhang, traverse to the first and then along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Netřesk
Via the crack (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
8/8+
Joe
Along the S edge. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5+
Joe
Through the middle of the E face. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
8/8+
Joe
NW edge. Rock Climbing Overhang
5+
Joe
Along the E edge. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Joe
Through the middle of the W face. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7+/8-
Joe
Through the middle of the SE face. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Joe
In the left part of the W face. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
8+/9-
Střecháč
Along the small chimney left to the rivet, through the chimney to the 2nd rivet, right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Joe
W face at the S edge. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Strakatá
Right part of the face to the ledge under the overhang. Traverse left to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
8-/8
Strakatá
Left part of the face (2 rings) to the ledge. Traverse right to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Lokr
Left (about 3m) of the 'Shingle' route, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Lokr
Along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7-/7
Strakatá
Middle of the face (rivet) directly to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Lokr
Left part of the valley face via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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