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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hrnek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šálek
To the left of the Old Path directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Poklička
Up the crack to its end, step right, and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrnek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šálek
Up the SE wall to the balcony and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jiljí
Up the chimney from the W side between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jiljí
In the right part of the western face at the S edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž Hermanna Buhla
Left part of the valley (NE) face to the ledge, left under the crack, along it to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the block left of the route Overhang via the face to the hourglass (anchor point).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the left plateau corner traverse the face left behind the edge to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the terrace on the valley side (at the eastern edge) along the small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Jurášek
Along the valley (southern) edge to the 1st and 2nd ring. Right via the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the block on the SW side of the tower traverse the face right to the hourglass … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1+
Hranostají skála západ
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2+
Hranostají skála západ
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7+
Hranostají skála západ
Direct finish of the upper half of the Bratří Erbenů (Erben Brothers) route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Omalovánka
In the valley wall, up a crack over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
6
Krtičkova vyhlídka
Up the corner crack in the NW wall to a ring and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Verunkožrout
In the right part of the wall, up a crack and chimney to the summit of Verunkožrout. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Verunkožrout
Up the center of the wall via an overhanging crack, then further up the wall. (No further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Stěna mladých pánů
In the left part of the NW wall along the edge past 2 rings and to the right into a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna mladých pánů
From the W, up a crack to a ledge, traverse right on it, through a falcon-shaped notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Frýdlantská vyhlídka
From the N, out of the gorge by straddling onto the valley block, up a crack and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Frýdlantská vyhlídka
Via the 'Grandfather's Gift' route to the 1st ring. From there, up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Frýdlantská stěna
To the left of the S edge, by spreading against the block and up the wall to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Frýdlantská stěna
Via the 'Breakfast of Champions' route to the small platform. Winding crack (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Frýdlantská vyhlídka
Up the valley wall to the right of the large overhang, through a small corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Vokrajovka
Traverse right in the wall and through holes (ring) along the wall to a balcony (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Třešnička
From the NW valley wall of the pillar over the overhang (ring) to its summit,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Reaktor
In the valley wall to the 1st ring of the 'Heavy Water' route diagonally onto the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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