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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Ovád
In the left part of the SW wall via a corner crack to the pillar and via route no. 1 to… Rock Climbing
5+
Ovád
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack to the pillar and via route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
2
Jasoň
Right part of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Varťák
Rock Climbing
3
Břicháč
From the NE (in the right part of the wall) up the wall and via a crack to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Břicháč
SW via double crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Břicháč
Via the inner chimney above the double crack of route no. 2 and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Břicháč
Left of route no. 2 via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Břicháč
Left of route no. 2a via a crack over the ceiling overhang to the pre-summit and up the… Rock Climbing
2
Břicháč
Via the corner in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážní
From the E, along the notch to the right and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Veselá
From the NW (from the boulder) along the sloping edge below the summit. Traverse left and… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní
Right part of the SW wall to the edge to the ring. Up the wall (clock) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážní
Rock Climbing
6
Ukazováček
Up the center of the valley (NE) wall or from the right via a crack and the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kabrňáček
Up the valley (SW) crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rypouš sloní
From the NE, through the chimney, higher up to the left behind the edge, along the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kabrňáček
Up the NE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rypouš sloní
From the plateau side, up the wall near the north edge (clock) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balvánek
To the right of the Short Path, up the SE wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Poklička
Up the center of the SE wall (ring) and then left up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Karakorum
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balvánek
From the South ridge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Poklička
From the S, up the small gully and then the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Poklička
Up the wall to the small balcony. Continue up the wall (hourglass, ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Poklička
Up the North ridge (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poklička
From the N, up the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poklička
Up the East ridge to the hourglass and then right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Poklička
Up the West ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrnek
Up the East ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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