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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Markytánka
From SW via the chimney to the balcony and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Markytánka
From SE via the crack to its end and traverse right to the edge to the ring. Along the… Rock Climbing
4
Markytánka
In the left part of the SW face (from the gully between the tower and General Laudon),… Rock Climbing
4
Generál Laudon
From the SW fore-rock, via the overhang and the left crack to the pillar. Via route no. 1… Rock Climbing
5
Generál Laudon
In the right part of the NE face, via a crack to the pillar and through a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Markytánka
Through the chimney from SW or NE to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ypsilon
In the left part of the NE face, up the wall to a crack in the smooth wall and through… Rock Climbing
4
Pandurek
From the N fore-rock, left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šumař bárta
From the pre-summit, along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Svatý Bimbas
By stemming against 'Staré železo' (Old Iron) (1st bolt), then over the overhang and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Svatý Bimbas
Up the center of the SE face via a crack and then left along the edge (3 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Suflér
In the SW face, left via a chimney to the ramp, then right along it and via a chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Svatý Bimbas
Up the center of the NE face via a crack (bolt), fissure and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mrtvej stromolezec
From the tourist path, by a short chimney and a crack to the fore-summit. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mrtvej stromolezec
To the right of the path 'Cyklistické koleno' (Cyclist's Knee), via a short chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mrtvej stromolezec
From the tourist path, traverse the oblique crack to the ledge and to the right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Měch
By the valley (SE) crack around the birch tree to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kulisačka
In the NE face, by the middle crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kočičák
From the saddle between Myšák and the tower, along the SE edge (1st ring) and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kukátko
From the NW, up the corner crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Děvče
From the NE, up the crack, traverse right and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Děvče
To the right in the SW, up the crack running right and the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kukátko
From the NE, up the S-shaped crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Žampion
From the SW, up the left inclined crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Žampion
In the right part of the SW wall, up the crack and then up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Žampion
Up the NE crack to the balcony. Built up and up the wall (1st ring) to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
4
Žampion
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney and then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná
From the SE, up the chimney to the block. Along the edge and up the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Žampion
In the left part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillar and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Supí brána
Start left of the edge, up the wall along the edge to the right (large clock), then a… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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