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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Šampionův masiv
Through the crack in the eastern edge to the balcony. Up the NE wall (ring) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Šestivěží
From the exit, from the highest point of the terrain, along the edge to the eastern block. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the N, ascend the wall left into a ledge and along it (2 rings) to the balcony. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
In the left part of the NE wall, by aid climbing, through a crack and a broken fissure … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Podivuhodný Mandarin
With generous use of aid/stacking into the gully to the pillar. By stepping over (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Konečník
From the plateau side by a small crack to the NW block. By stepping over and the west… Rock Climbing
5
Konečník
By a chimney between "Větrolamy" (Windbreaks) and the tower to the crack, along it (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dionýsos
From SE from the gorge, by the wall along the edge and a gully to the pillar. Left to the… Rock Climbing
4
Kovářova smrt
From NW, through a chimney below the summit head. With significant aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážný
From SW, through a chimney to the fore-summit to the ring. Aid climbing and left along… Rock Climbing
3
Lapka
From the plateau side (from W) by step to the edge and along it to the boulder. Along the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lapka
From the plateau fore-summit (from NW) by jump to the boulder and along the wall to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Martinská stěna
To the right of the Hadovka route, a corner (3 rings and a bolt) and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mordýř
To the right of the route "Evening Song" by crack to the fore-summit. The route "Hladká" … Rock Climbing
6
Martinská stěna
In the right part of the NE wall, a wavy crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mordýř
Along the N edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mordýř
From SE (from the tourist path) via the right overhanging crack (ring) to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Strážce duší
In the middle of the SW wall, diagonally right along the wall to the edge and along the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mordýř
From SE (from the tourist path) via the left crack (1st ring) under the overhang. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Večerka
From SW, through a chimney below the summit. By crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce duší
Along the plateau wall (under the rappel) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Myšák
From Mouse Hole, traverse to the 1st ring. To the right to the crack and up to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Smolařka
The start is on a overgrown ledge on the SW side of the tower. By crack into the saddle… Rock Climbing
6
Kovář
From SE by a corner crack and a small chimney to the 1st bolt. Up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing
5
Majka
From N by a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Majka
In the NE wall, by the left crack, higher up by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Majka
SE by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Scéna
In the left part of the SW wall, by the left corner crack and higher up by route no. 1 to… Rock Climbing
2
Scéna
From the plateau side (from N) by a small corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Majka
Right of route no. 1 by a crack, higher up by a crack to the right to the top. Rock Climbing

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