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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kuželky
From the uphill side descend right to the end of the NE gorge to the start. Via an… Rock Climbing
5
Kacíř
Uphill crack (from SE) to the pillar and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Žejdlíček
NE cracks to the pillar and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Loďka
From S via a chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kacíř
SW wall to the pre-summit and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Souvěží
From S via a chimney and up the wall diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Plocháč
Rock Climbing
4
Touškova věž
From NW with substantial building (stacking) and a crack to the balcony. Right up the… Rock Climbing
7
Šampión
In the N corner via a wide crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Prostopášnice
To the right of route no. 2 via cracks and higher up via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Prostopášnice
From the lower side by building (stacking), a small chimney and a crack into the chimney,… Rock Climbing
5
Prostopášnice
From the right from path no. 2 via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Šampión
To the right of route no. 1 via a crack to the window and via route no. 1 to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Šampión
From the gorge (right of route no. 4) via a slanting crack through a small cave to the… Rock Climbing
2
Šampión
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack to the window. Through the opening into the… Rock Climbing
4-
Renér
To the right of route no. 1, via the chimney to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šampión
Right NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Šampión
To the left of route no. 5 via a crack, higher up via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Šampión
Via route no. 1 to the window and via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Renér
In the left part of the NE wall along the edge to the pre-summit. (With aid) and wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Mušle
From SE, along the ledge right and via a crack in the NE wall over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mušle
Via the valley route into the hollow, traverse right along the slab. Wall (ring), gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mušle
Along the ledge in the SE wall to the east edge to the ring, (with aid) to the small… Rock Climbing
7
Mušle
Along the blunt south edge (1st ring) slightly right to the rounded rib. Up it to the… Rock Climbing
7+
Mušle
From the valley side via a broken crack (ring) to the ledge. Route No. 2 or 4 to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mušle
SW crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mušle
NW crack (ring) to the slab, along it left and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Mušle
From the small platform via the South Edge route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Skarabeus
From the valley side, via a chimney and cracks to a block. In the ledge to the right and… Rock Climbing
4
Skarabeus
From the NW, chimneys n. v. (Normal Way/Normal ascent). Rock Climbing

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