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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Umrlec
Right of route no. 3 via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Umrlec
Right of route no. 1 via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Umrlec
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack, chimney, and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Umrlec
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Housle
Via the left part of the NE wall to the edge (ring) and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kalafuna
From the North via the falcon's notch and to the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Emil
Rock Climbing
5+
Starosta a starostová
Via the valley crack over the overhang (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Starosta a starostová
Via the SW crack into the gap between the towers and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Emil
Rock Climbing
2
Dítě
Rock Climbing
5
Emil
Up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Synek
From the plateau side up the wall along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Supí hnízdo
From the North via grooves and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Emilka
Through the NE chimney to the widening and up the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Emilka
To the right of route no. 1 via a chimney and to the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Černý sup
Rock Climbing
3
Černý sup
To the right of route No. 2 along the edge to the platform (hourglass) and to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Synek
In the left part of the valley (NE) wall via a crack to the left to the ring and up the… Rock Climbing
2
Dřevař
Through the right part of the plateau face. Rock Climbing
2
Černý sup
From the NW, by corner and further along the edge. Rock Climbing
2
Dřevař
Along the left valley edge. Rock Climbing
5
Synek
From the plateau side, up the middle of the face. Rock Climbing
5
Bulík
In the right part of the NE face, by crack, no top. Rock Climbing
5
Okovy
In the left part of the SE face from a straddle into a crack. By crack and gully. Rock Climbing
6+
Okovy
Through the right part of the NE face to the 1st ring and up the face along the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing
3
Dřevař
From the NW, by chimney to the left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
4
Bulík
Rock Climbing
5
Bulík
In the left part of the NE face, by crack, no top. Rock Climbing
2
Všivec
Along the N edge. Rock Climbing

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