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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Pařez
From the SW, by straddle to the ring and up the face. Rock Climbing
3
Archa Noemova
From the NE, by chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Ra
By NE cracks to the end, then up the face to the left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
3
Pánova
Up the SW face diagonally to the right to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
6
Čapka
To the right of the E edge, up the face (ring). Rock Climbing
2
Hvězdárna
Rock Climbing
3
Pánova
Through the left part of the NE face to the edge of route no. 1 and along it. Rock Climbing
5+
Čapka
From the SE, by gully to the small platform to the ring and up the face. Rock Climbing
5
Únorová věž
In the middle of the SW face, by chimney and crack to its end. To the right, by crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký fernet
From the gap between towers (from NW) via the chimney to its end. Via a small pinnacle… Rock Climbing
6+
Velký fernet
From the end of the gap between towers via a small face right beyond the edge to the… Rock Climbing
2
Pupkáč
In the N corner via a double crack (or chimney between the tower and Velký Fernet) to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Šnytlík
The ascent starts below the E corner of the tower. Via the corner crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Převor
Rock Climbing
3
Šnytlík
The ascent starts on the boulder at the N edge. Traverse down the ledge to the crack and… Rock Climbing
2
Malý Václav
Rock Climbing
6+
Funebrák
In the SW face via a small pinnacle/arete, a crack and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Čtyřčata
Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřčata
Rock Climbing
5
Panáček
From the plateau side up the face to the ledge. Along it left to the edge and up the face… Rock Climbing
2
Bernardýn
Rock Climbing
5
Ašant
Along the NW edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Pán
From W up the wall to the balcony. Up the crack and left into the corner. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing
2
Vláček
Rock Climbing
6
Pán
From SW via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malá pyramida
Up the NW face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní blues
SW chimney to the pillar and via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Drákula
From the uphill side via cracks over steps to the pre-summit and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kuželky
Via route no. 1 to the NE gorge. In its right part via a chimney to the saddle and via… Rock Climbing
2
Jezuita
NE chimney to the saddle, along the ledge to the right and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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