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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Vrtule
From the 2nd ring of route no. 1, right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vrtule
Along the E edge (1st ring) to the platform and up the wall to the 2nd ring. Left up the… Rock Climbing
6
Vrtule
From the SW fore-rock, step over to the clock and right up the wall to the platform.… Rock Climbing
3
Supí brána
Along the E edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Žlutá
In the left part of the NE wall, a crack to the pre-summit and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Závora
From the E edge, traverse right across the wall to the rock window. Climb through the… Rock Climbing
5
Žlutá
From the SW up the wall and chimney to the NE terrace. In the middle of the NE wall via… Rock Climbing
6
Žlutá
In the middle of the NE terrace, up the pyrite wall diagonally left to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žlutá
Route no. 3 to the NE terrace. From its right edge, up the wall to the circle and along… Rock Climbing
3
Měďák
Up the NE wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Andílek
Up the NW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zlaťák
From the valley side up the wall to the right and by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zlaťák
From the plateau side up by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Andílek
From the NE via the chimney to the wedged boulder and right by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Truhla
Up the NE crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Truhla
Up the SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Petlice
From the NW via the chimney to the pre-summit and by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sarka Farka
From the NW via the chimney and right along the wall to the 1st ring. Up the slabby wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Nickamínek
Up the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kovářka
From the SE via the chimney to the pillar. Along the ledge left and up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing
5
Kristián Goldšejn
In the right part of the NE wall by stemming into the crack (ring) and then to the pre… Rock Climbing
5+
Tuvente
From the SW, from the gully with Buchar, left by a crack over the overhang to a block. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Knecht
Left part of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Okrajek
Via the right crack in the NE face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Knecht
Right part of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Okrajek
Via opposition and the left crack in the NE face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Diamant
Via the NE overhanging crack to the top (not explicitly 'n.v.' but 'n.t.' usually implies… Rock Climbing
4
Ovád
From the N, via a corner crack to the pillar and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jasoň
Left of route no. 2 via a small wall over the overhang and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jasoň
Left part of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing

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