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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Dvorská
Along the left valley edge, up the overhanging wall with 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
From the 4th ring, up the wall left, higher right (5th ring) along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
Right of the west corner via the corner and wall (4 rings - first ring added) into a hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
At the west edge via the crack and wall left to a small balcony. Aid climbing, right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Dvorská
In the middle of the valley (NW) wall, via a crack in the corner to a small balcony to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Dvorská
At the south edge with substantial aid climbing and the wall left to the 1st ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Dvorská
Variant of Flegel's route behind the small cave (aid climbing) and the wall (added ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Dvorská
Center of the west wall via the 1st and 2nd ring into the route "Pastorale", then without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dvorská
Variant of Flegel's route into the small cave and a curved crack to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dvorská
From the ring, traverse the wall left and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvorská
From the ring of Flegel's route, traverse the wall right past the edge to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ledopád Khumbu
Via the left NE crack to the fore-summit. Up the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Ledopád Khumbu
Right Northeast crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Dvorská
From the high pre-rock, via the right corner crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Ledopád Khumbu
Southeast chimneys to the pre-summit. On the way, Left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ledopád Khumbu
In the middle of the NE wall, through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Ledopád Khumbu
From NE, via the second crack from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
Přeskok
Pasang Dava Láma
From the balcony (Hand Crack route) short descent on Pumori and jump to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pumori
Via the NE notch to the balcony and 'Hand Crack' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pumori
Via the right NE crack to the fore-summit. 'Hand Crack' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Pumori
From the gorge on the NE side of the tower, through the crack to the balcony and right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Pumori
In the left part of the NE wall, via the corner crack to the fore-summit and right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Pumori
From the inner space on the NE side of the tower, through the chimney to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mišma
From the west, through the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mišma
From the south, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mišma
Via the Northern crack (below the rappel point) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ama Dablam
Via the NE crack to the plateau. Climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Tave Čhe
Up the SE wall, higher up traverse the wall to the right, through the crack and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tave Čhe
From NE, through the chimney into the dihedral and over the overflow to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tave Čhe
Via the South wall (valley side) over holes and a slab to the ring. Up the wall and gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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