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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Bambulka
Up the right part of the NE wall (ring) and right along the edge to the balcony. Via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Kočička
In the left part of the valley wall, via a double crack and higher up via a chimney to… Rock Climbing
5+
Bambulka
Via a small ridge into a traverse and along the 'Mobilomania' route to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4-
Kočička
Via a chimney between the tower and BAMBULKA to a vegetated balcony. Left along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kočička
From the North, via a crack to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4-
Kočička
From the inner space (between "Kočička" and "Bambulka"), via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kočička
Via the 'For Fat Gentlemen' route to a vegetated balcony. Via a narrow chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kočička
Via the 'Across the Balcony' route to the 2nd ring. Left along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6
Stěna nad mýtinou
From the right edge of the NE wall, via a diagonal corner left to a small platform.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Kočička
Up the valley's NE wall along the crack (1st ring) and along the wall over an overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna nad mýtinou
Through the middle of the wall (2 rings) to a prominent ledge with a large hourglass and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Stěna nad mýtinou
Along the prominent edge in the NE wall (5 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Stěna nad mýtinou
Via the 'Emotional Investment' route to the 3rd ring. Up the wall to the left and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Stěna nad mýtinou
In the left part of the NE wall, via a small ridge to the 1st ring and along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Stěna nad mýtinou
Via the 'Pudding' route to the 1st ring. Via a small ridge to the 3rd ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Stěna nad mýtinou
From NW via cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
7+/8-
Stěna nad mýtinou
In the left part of the wall, via a small ridge to the 1st ring. Diagonally left (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Stěna nad mýtinou
Via a chimney in the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Severní bastion
From the NE, along the edge of the rib (2 rings) to its summit. Over the crest (3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Severní bastion
From the NE, up the right part of the wall into the crack, which (1st ring) leads to an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Severní bastion
From the fore-peak on the W side, up the center of the SW wall (ring) to the pre-summit,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Severní bastion
From the fore-peak on the SW side, up the right part of the SW wall to the crack, along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mincovna
At the end of the passage between "Main Summit" and "East Pillar", via stemming and a… Rock Climbing
5
Severní bastion
From the SE, up the wall over a small overhang and along the edge to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Mincovna
Along the S edge to the terrace and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mincovna
Via the 'Meow' route to the ledge and directly up the wall to the small platform by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Šenkovna
From the terrace by the ladder, via a jam to the ring, and up the wall past the hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Šenkovna
From the terrace via a narrow crack to the 1st ring. Via a narrow crack and the wall to…
3
Mincovna
In the left part of the SW wall, via jams and a corner into the chimney, then to the pre… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mincovna
To the right of the passage (from the internal areas of the Cat Castle on the NE side),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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