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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Šenkovna
To the right in the valley wall via a narrow crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall…
4+
Hlavní vrchol
To the right of the start of the 'Kamenolom' route, via the chimney to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Hlavní vrchol
In the corridor between "East Pillar" and "Main Tower" via the northern corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní vrchol
From the tourist path, up the SE wall below the overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavní vrchol
From SE (from the labyrinth tourist path) via a wide chimney, higher up a corner and then… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavní vrchol
Between "Main Summit" and "East Pillar" in the corridor via the NE corner (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hlavní vrchol
From the end of the tourist path in the interior, via a chimney to the fore-summit and a… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavní vrchol
Start via the 'Něžný kout' route. Up the corner and at the beginning of the small crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jižní věž
From SW via the chimney and wall to the plateau. Up the wall along the N ridge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Jižní věž
From the tourist path on the NE side of the tower, via the chimney to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Jižní věž
From the boulders on the SE side of the tower, up a narrow wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Jižní věž
To the right of the 'Obouručka' route via a chimney and crack to the hole, then a narrow… Rock Climbing
4+
Večerní
Left of the N ridge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Večerní
Wall to the right of the E ridge Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Večerní
SE wall to the ring and left along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
3
Parkán
Along the face along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Parkán
Along the west edge over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Večerní
Directly along the E ridge and via the 'Němečkova' route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pavouk
Left of the E edge via a crack and directly along the face to the 1st ring of the 'Spider… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Parkán
Via small chimneys in the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pavouk
The ascent starts at the left edge of the NE face. Along the face diagonally left behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pavouk
Left of the 'Spider's Ridge direct' route via a crack to the 1st ring. Along the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Pavouk
Through the right part of the NE face over the overhang, via a small chimney and along… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Pavouk
Through the crack in the NE face (ring) into the indentation and right along the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Pavouk
Through the left part of the NE face (ring) and small chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
6+/7-
Pavouk
Through the middle of the NE face to the ring. Right along the face 2m up and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
7-/7
Pavouk
Via the 'Twilight' route to the ring. Left along the face directly to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Pavouk
Via the 'Náchod' route to the small platform, along the face to the NW edge to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pavouk
From the SW through the corner and chimney into the 'Descent' route and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pavouk
Via the 'Náchod' route to the detached block. From the highest point of the block along… Rock Climbing

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