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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Popraviště
To the left of the 'Yellow Corner' route, follow the eastern edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Škaroupkova špička
From the East, stem off the boulder and up the wall to the SE edge. Follow the route 'SE… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Škaroupkova špička
From the NE, up the wall along the sharp edge via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Stěna starých pánů
Up the center of the NE wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stěna starých pánů
By way of 'Retired Classics' to the 3rd ring. To the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stěna starých pánů
In the right part of the NE wall, up the small pillar in the center of the detached… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Škaroupkova špička
To the right of the SE edge, traverse left on the wall to the edge and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
4-
Škaroupkova špička
To the left of the SE edge, traverse right on the wall to the edge and follow the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stěna starých pánů
In the left part of the wall via the pillar and wall to the ring. Above the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
7+/8-
Stěna starých pánů
By way of 'Lančova' to the ledge above the ring. Directly up the wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Stěna starých pánů
From the SE, up the crack (ring) to a vegetated balcony. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna starých pánů
Left of the E edge, up the wall over the overhang (1st ring) and along the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stěna starých pánů
Up the left part of the NE wall (1st ring) directly to the 2nd ring. Left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Stěna starých pánů
To the right of 'Variant (Lančova)' directly up the wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Stěna starých pánů
Right of the E edge, up the wall (3 rings) to a small plateau at the slanted crack. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Stěna starých pánů
In the fall line of the 'Lančova' route's crack, go directly up the wall to its start.… Rock Climbing Danger
5
Dodovka
Via the 'Dolečkova' route to the terrace. Go directly up the wall over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Dodovka
Up the valley wall to the ledge at the 'clocks' and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6+/7-
Dodovka
Via the 'Dolečkova' route to the 'clocks'. Up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Dodovka
Up the wall along the edge directly to the 1st ring of the 'Anting' route and follow it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dodovka
Up the SW wall diagonally right to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dodovka
From the plateau side, go up the wall to the terrace and along the ledge left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Stěna za Dodovkou
The ascent is the same as the 'Wall Crack' route. Diagonally left up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna za Dodovkou
The ascent starts under the right part of the NE wall behind the boulder. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Stěna za Dodovkou
The route starts via the 'Magic of Movement' chimney, through which you climb into the… Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the terrace below the right part of the wall, ascend a short chimney and left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the left edge of the terrace (left of 'Magic of Movement'), go up the wall into the… Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the right part of the wall, via a prominent crack to a small platform. Via a corner or… Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the left part of the valley wall, via a crack to the ring. Via the 'Sokolík' (Falcon… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna za Dodovkou
The start is the same as the 'Panoptikum' route. Via the 'Sokolík' (Falcon-like corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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