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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Stěna za Dodovkou
To the right of the 'Spára' (Crack) route, directly up the wall (3 rings) to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna za Dodovkou
Via the 'Spára' (Crack) route to the ring. To the right, via the disappearing crack into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Stěna za Dodovkou
To the left of the route, a crack up the wall (1st ring) to the ledge and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the SW, up the steps to the ledge, obliquely left via a corner into the saddle, and… Rock Climbing
3
Stěna za Dodovkou
Via the 'Zezadu' (From Behind) route to the ledge and along it traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the left part of the SE wall, via a falcon-like crack over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the S wall, via a crack to the ring, up the wall to the balcony, and via the 'Jiříkovy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Prokletá
From the NW, from the edge, via a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Prokletá
Via the 'Sokolík' (Falcon) route for 3m and traverse the wall right behind the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Prokletá
Up the wall along the E edge (2 rings), higher up to the left along the edge to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Prokletá
From the NE, via cracks to the ledge, a long traverse left to a small balcony with a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prokletá
From the S edge, from the gully between the towers, via the wall (ring) to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the adjacent pillars on the NW side of the tower, by jumping into the saddle and via… Rock Climbing
5+
Prokletá
From the SE, via the corner crack to the small platform, and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Prokletá
Up the wall to the left of the corner crack directly to the holes. Traverse into the… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Prokletá
Between the tower and the edge (aid climbing) into the chimney. Via opposition and the… Rock Climbing
4+
Prokletá
From the S edge, traverse right in the holes to the corner crack. Via the 'Sokolík' … Rock Climbing
3
Grinch
From the S wall along the E ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Grinch
From the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Grinch
From the NW side, through the corner (1st ring) to the ledge, traverse left to the ridge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4-
Souhvězdí Polárky
Right of the SE ridge, up the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Souhvězdí Polárky
Through the chimney between the adjacent towers to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Souhvězdí Polárky
Via the distinctive gully at the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Souhvězdí Polárky
Along the SE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zlodějíček
Right part of the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Placák
Center of the SE face along the winding crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zlodějíček
NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Placák
Left of the route 'Cosmic Line' along the ridge and up the face along the ridge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zlodějíček
NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Zloděj
Through the corner right of the S ridge 2m up, traverse left to the ridge, along it (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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