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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Rypouš sloní
(UIAA 7-)In the left part of the SW face via a crack to its end. Traverse 3m right and up… Rock Climbing
5
Rypouš sloní
Start in the E gully. Over overgrown steps to the balcony. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rypouš sloní
In the left part of the SW face by a small crack and wall to the 1st bolt. By the gully … Rock Climbing
2+
Rypouš sloní
(UIAA Traverse 1) From the left edge of the SW face (from Borová) by a system of passable… Rock Climbing
5
Rypouš sloní
(UIAA 5+)From S via a chimney to the balcony, up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rypouš sloní
(UIAA 5+)Start in the E gully. Up the face and by a step-across into route no. 1 and… Rock Climbing
8-
Rypouš sloní
(UIAA 8-)In the left part of the SW face via a thin crack and face to the 1st ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
4-
Prcek
(UIAA 4)From the valley side via a chimney to a block and up the left face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Prcek
(UIAA 4)Between the tower and Alenka's Tower via a chimney and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Penál
From the fore-rock below the right part of the SW pillar opposite Eskymáček (Eskimo), up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pagoda
From the NE along the crack diagonally left to the edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pagoda
From the ledge above the 1st bolt up the wall into the gully and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pagoda
(UIAA 6+) Start in the pass-through chimney between the tower and Penzion. Up the wall in… Rock Climbing
4-
Pagoda
(UIAA 4) Description missing Rock Climbing
6-
Pagoda
(UIAA 6-) From the NE along the crack diagonally down to the edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pagoda
(UIAA 6+) Right of route No. 3 up the wall to the right to the 1st bolt. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Maják
(UIAA 6+) From the small chimney of route No. 1 along the ledge to the right and up the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Maják
At the western edge, by bridging against the pillar to its top, by stepping over and up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Maják
Up the crack to the ledge and left up the wall along the edge over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Maják
Through the left part of the NW wall of the high fore-rock below its summit, up the wall … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Maják
Up the NW wall of the high fore-rock to its highest point. Up the wall () to the hole and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Maják
Rock Climbing
5+
Maják
Left of the western edge directly up the crack to the end of the traverse. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Maják
From the bolt through cracks to the 2nd bolt and up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Maják
(UIAA 6-) Start below the S wall. Traverse downwards along the wall to the edge and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Maják
In the left part of the upper gorge by stepping over and up the wall (2 bolts) to the end… Rock Climbing
5+
Maják
Rock Climbing
5
Maják
(UIAA 5) From the upper side up the small chimney into the recess, along the ledge by… Rock Climbing
5+
Maják
By the eastern route to the start of the traverse and up the wall (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Maják
From the upper side up the small chimney into the recess, along the ledge by crawling… Rock Climbing

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