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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Jezevec
Via the western edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jezevec
Left of the western edge, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Jezevec
(UIAA 3)Up the uphill (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Robinson
Between Robinson and Skalní masiv (Rocky Massif) via chimney and southern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Robinson
From Skalní masiv (Rocky Massif) by jump and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Robinson
Left of the eastern edge through a crack to a ledge, up the wall to the right onto the… Rock Climbing
5+
Robinson
Near the northern edge through a crack and wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Robinson
Along the right valley (western) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Robinson
(UIAA 3-) Up the wall along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Robinson
Up the center of the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Robinson
SW crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Borůvka
Up the center of the valley wall (W) from below. Rock Climbing
5
Pytlák
Along the valley (southern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Pytlák
At the valley wall, through the chimney between our and the neighboring tower, higher up… Rock Climbing
2+
Solnohrad
From the upper side traverse along a ledge to the left to the pine tree and along the… Rock Climbing
3
Bochánek
(UIAA 3) Left part of the upper (SE) wall to the ridge, crossing to the right and up the… Rock Climbing
2
Mecháček
From the edge piece, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Mecháček
Up the wall along the upper (eastern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Zrcadlo
Left part of the wall (nut) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Zrcadlo
Center of the wall (2 nuts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Mordor
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6+/7-
Zrcadlo
Right part of the wall (nut) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Kapřík
Through the center of the south face, 2 rings n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Mordor
Via 'Sauronova' to the bolt and directly up the wall over 2 rings to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7/7+
Kapřík
Through the center of the SE wall to the hourglass. Slightly left to the summit by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Mordor
Through the center of the valley wall below the overhang (sling) over the overhang (bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kapr
Up the SE wall from the left or directly to the 1st ring and along the crack up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Kapr
Up the SE wall along the edge (2 rings) to the balcony. Via 'Dilemma' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4-
Kapřík
Right of the S edge up the wall and through a crack to the ledge. Through the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Kapr
Via 'Lojzík's Eyes' to the ring. From the ring up the wall to the right to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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