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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Kapr
Left part of the SW wall (1st ring) to the balcony. Along the small crack (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kapr
Left of the S edge up the wall (1st ring) to the balcony. Directly up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Kapr
Along the W edge over the overhang to the ring. Directly up the wall, higher up left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Kapr
Through the chimney with wedged stones between "Kapr" and "Mřenka" to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Mřenka
Through the center of the SW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Mřenka
In the SE wall (left of the chimney) up the wall and small corner to the 1st ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Mřenka
Left of the start of Táta's Mourning Route up the wall over the bolt into the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Mřenka
From the boulder below the SE wall along the S edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Mřenka
Via a cheerful variant above the bolt into a horizontal crack and onto the balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Mřenka
Along the detached pillar to the right up the wall into the hole. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
7-/7
Zemovka
In the right part of the S wall, 2 rings and a bolt into the gully to the hourglass. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Oltář
Through the center of the wall to the ring, from the left diagonally right to the holes… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Oltář
Right part of the wall over a small overhang to the ring. Directly up the wall, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Záprdek
Up the wall to the ring. (Massif to the right of the Monolith) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Monolit
Via 'Express' to the ring. From the ring traverse right to the edge. Up along it, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Monolit
Through the center of the wall (nut) to the ring. Traverse left along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Čínská zeď
Left part of the SE wall (ring) to the balcony and up the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Monolit
Along the left edge (ring and bolt and hourglass) to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Čínská zeď
Via 'Saigon' to the 3rd ring. From the ring up the wall left along the edge and back to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Čínská zeď
Right part of the SE wall to the 2nd ring of 'Saigon' route. Up the wall diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-
Balvan
Along the W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
8-/8
Balvan
From the belay over the overhang directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
7
Balvan
Through the center of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
8-/8
Čínská zeď
Through the center of the wall over 4 rings (slightly left between the 3rd and 4th ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7+/8-
Balvan
Through the center of the overhanging SE wall (nut) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Sýpka
From the top of Balvan up the wall to the ledge and traverse left in it to the hourglass.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Sýpka
Up the SW wall (2 nuts) directly to the ring of the Zrnění route and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7-/7
Sýpka
From the start of 'Metal-Mania' up the wall directly to the 1st ring of the 'Micropády'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Sýpka
Via 'Metal-Mania' to the 1st ring and directly up the wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Sýpka
The start is below the boulder near the SW wall. Small corners along the S edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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