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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sýpka
Up the wall along the E edge (ring), higher along the edge and further up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Sýpka
Via 'Metal-Mania' to the 1st ring and directly up the wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Sýpka
The start is below the boulder near the SW wall. Small corners along the S edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Sýpka
Via the Zrnění route to the ring. From the ring up the wall to the right, then back above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Březová
Left part of the wall to the crack and through it (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Sýpka
Right part of the SE wall into the depression and left to the ring. Straight up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Sýpka
In the middle of the valley (SE) wall, by a distinct corner crack (hourglass) under an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Březová
Right part of the wall (ring) to the balcony and right by the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Březová
Via the 'Jezeďácká' route to the ledge. Straight up the wall to the 2nd ring and right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Březová
From the overgrown fore-rock to the right of the 'Area of Dreams' route, up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Březová
Via the 'Area of Dreams' route to the 1st ring. From the ring straight up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Březová
The start is to the right of the overgrown fore-rock. Left part of the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Březová
In the right part of the wall by the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Březová
Via the 'Večernice' route about 4 meters up and then left over the 1st ring, a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Březová
In the left part of the wall through the chimney to the overgrown fore-rock. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Chán
Right part of the SW wall (1st ring) to the balcony. Along the S edge (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Chán
Middle of the SW wall to the ring. Up the wall to the large hourglass and along the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Chán
Through the corner at the left edge of the SW wall to the ledge. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Malý Hund
Right part of the wall (1 bolt and 2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7/7+
Malý Hund
Via the 'Steeplechase' route to the 1st ring. Up the wall diagonally left to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7+/8-
Malý Hund
Middle of the wall along the crack and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Malý Hund
Left part of the wall (2 rings) and along the small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Žďárská vyhlídka
Middle of the SW wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Žďárská vyhlídka
Through the corner between "Žďárská vyhlídka" and "Malý Hund" to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Žďárská vyhlídka
Left part of the SW wall directly over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Žďárská vyhlídka
SW wall along the S edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skleněný zámek
Middle of the SE wall of the lower block over the ring to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strakatá
Middle of the slabby western wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Skleněný zámek
Through a narrow chimney to the left of the 'Oak King' route between wedged boulders to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Strakatá
Wall (bolt) to the pedestal and by it to the Ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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