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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7
Půlnoční
cl. UIAA 7Right of path no. 3, up a crack to the balcony (ring). Through a fissure and… Rock Climbing
7
První Teplická
Left part of the valley wall at the edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Placatá zeměkoule
From the east, through the middle wide crack - chimney and using handholds around, over… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7
Neznášovská věž
Middle of the valley wall over several hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Káně
Left eastern edge (3 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Neznášovská věž
On the upland (western) side, through a narrow chimney to the right and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Protestant
In the left part of the valley wall, up the wall to the ring, further to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Břichomluvec
Left valley edge over 2 bolts, traverse right over holes (hourglasses) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Katolík
From the upland, middle of the wall to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Protestant
Upland wall to the balcony and via the 'From the gorge' path to the summit. (It is… Rock Climbing
3
Mezník
Middle of the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mezník
Southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Protestant
From the upland side, up a sloping crack to the saddle, through the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Žihadlo
On the upland wall, traverse and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Žihadlo
Start with the southwest chimney to the flake and by building (standing on each other) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mezník
Left upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mezník
Left of the Descent Route, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vojáček
From the NW fore-peak, up the wall and left through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Slojový pilíř
Northern edge over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall right to the ledge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vojáček
Sloping upland crack to the small platform, finger crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Špinavá
The ascent starts under the west corner. Up a short chimney and crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Střelmistr
In the left part of the SE wall, up a crack in the corner to the pillar. Up a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Špinavá
To the left of the Mossy Path variant, via a crack on the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Špinavá
NW chimney on the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Špinavá
NE crack on the pillar. Via the crack to the pre-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zelený menhir
From the east corner, traverse right along the wall to the 1st ring. Continue traversing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zelený menhir
From the upper pillar, via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Strážce jezera
From the west edge, traverse left along the wall into the valley wall to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
Through cracks in the NE corner (ring) to the saddle. Up the wall over an overhang and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
Via the Found Arrow route to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall along the cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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