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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Vévoda
From the west edge, traverse left along the wall under the overhang to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vévoda
From the upper side, via the "Old Route" almost to the window and right up a small … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Vévoda
Up the valley wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vévoda
From the SW, up a small chimney to a small pillar and up the crack into the indentation.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vévoda
SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vechtrovna
Up the valley wall over a ring to the ledge. Via the "Small Wall" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
From the upper gorge, up a small crack and wall below the overhang. Traverse right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the right part of the NW wall, up the crack and right along the edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vechtrovna
Up the upper wall to the pedestal and along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vekslák
Up the upper chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vekslák
Up the wall along the west edge over 2 rings and from the 3rd ring up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sova pálená
From the NW, left along the wall to the crack, up it to the balcony and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the valley (NE) wall, up the indentation to the ring and up the overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vekslák
Valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Macecha
From the gorge between Macocha and Vekslák (a carved groove at the base) along the S edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Macecha
Valley wall (between St. c. and Blue Monday) via 2 rings and hours to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Macecha
To the left of Western. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Macecha
From the path up the west chimney to the pillar. Along the wall and crack to the sub… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osamělá
From NW via the corner crack and left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Osamělá
Via the Kout path about three meters, traverse the wall to the right and along the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Osamělá
NE edge (2x hours) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kokša
Near the left plateau edge, up the wall, small hawk, and crack to the small pillars.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kokša
From the small pillar of the Transition Route, up the wall, via a small hawk (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kokša
From the west corner up the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the ledge, then left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vřesová zahrádka
From the NE, across overgrown blocks diagonally right to the valley side and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježíšek pankáček
In the left part of the SW wall into a corner. In the ceiling, traverse out and use… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ježíšek pankáček
Right SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježíšek pankáček
In the NW wall, up the crack and a prominent rock feature to the ring. Higher and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ježíšek pankáček
From SE via the muddy crack and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ježíšek pankáček
In the plateau area, by stepping over and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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