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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Strážce jezera
Via the Found Arrow route to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall along the cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
Through cracks in the NE corner (ring) to the saddle. Up the wall over an overhang and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Strážce jezera
From the NW, up the chimney to the saddle and via the stemming chimney between Lake… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
Via the Overlap route to the saddle. Traverse left along the ledge (1st ring) to the west… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
In the right part of the valley wall, aid climb to the crack, up it over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Strážce jezera
Via the Lake Wall route to the 1st ring. Diagonally left up the gully and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
Left of Mordor, through the middle of the wide valley wall over small overhangs (5 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Strážce jezera
From the gorge on the upper (SE) side of the tower, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
NW edge over five rings to the summit. (right of Mordor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Strážce jezera
Straight up the right valley edge over a ring and 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gorgony
From the lowest point of the valley side, up the wall and corner crack to the terrace.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Strážce jezera
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Gorgony
Between Gorgons and Lake Guardian, up the corner crack below the overhang. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Gorgony
NE chimney over the terrace to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradbička
At the right valley edge, up the crack to a small balcony and via 'sokolíky' (small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradbička
In the right part of the valley wall, up the corner to a overgrown ledge. Up the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Gorgony
Step across from the massif and up a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
Right of the Old Route, up the crack to the pillar. By stepping across and up the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, up a short crack into the inner space. From… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
Up the upper wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
From the SW, up the crack over the overhang into the chimney and up it to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kněžna
Under the SW corner of the tower, by stemming against a block, up the crack and wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
The ascent starts under the right part of the valley wall. Up a system of cracks to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vévoda
From the upper (SE) side, via steps to the ring. Up the crack to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
Via the valley route and the left crack into the indentation. Up the corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Vévoda
From the chimney of the Old Route, traverse through to the valley side and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
Via the valley route to the ring. Up the crack and 'sokolíky' (small ledges/flakes) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vévoda
From the 1st ring, left beyond the edge into the recess to the crack of the Valley Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vévoda
Via the Past Times route to a small platform, up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Vévoda
From the 1st ring, left along the wall onto the edge and along it up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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