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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Ježíšek pankáček
In the plateau area, by stepping over and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Křovák
In the plateau area, up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Divadlo
In the left part of the NW wall, up the crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Divadlo
In the right part of the NW wall, up the chimney and crack to the 3rd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Křovák
Up the valley wall to the ring. Using aid from the harness and right along the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Divadlo
In the west wall, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Divadlo
Along the valley edge and system of cracks to the 1st ring. To the right, traverse the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kulisy
The ascent starts at the valley (west) corner of the tower. Up the wall and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kulisy
To the left of the Dramaturge's Secret route, via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Divadlo
SE opposition chimney and crack to the 3rd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lefos
In the right part of the plateau wall, up the crack to the end, using aid, and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kulisy
Up the plateau chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Otylka
Left part of the plateau (SE) wall to the edge and along it (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lefos
To the left of the north edge, via substantial aid climbing and up the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Ramona
Along the left valley edge, up the crack like the God's Fate route to its end, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Otylka
Up the plateau chimney between Otylka and the edge crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Otylka
Right valley crack and wall (ring) across the balcony to the pillar. Step over and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Ramona
From the 2nd ring, up a shallow gully (ring) and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Ramona
Near the left valley edge, up the crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall and edge over three… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ramona
In the right part of the valley wall, up the crack to the 1st ring. To the left, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Ramona
Between Venca's Crack and Twilight of the Gods over 7 rings a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
In the left part of the valley wall, up a shallow corner to the 1st ring, up the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ramona
Near the right valley edge, up the right crack into a hole, from there directly (1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
From the 4th ring, traverse right into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
Near the right valley edge, up the left crack into a hole and up the wall to the edge at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
From the slope, traverse the wall to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
To the right of the west edge, up the crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ramona
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the pillar, up the crack and wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ramona
To the left of the Plateau Crack route, up the wall (2 rings) to the 4th ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Ramona
Up the center of the north side wall via 6 rings to the summit (left side wall from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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