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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Čokl
Up the wall along the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čokl
SW wall directly to the hours. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čokl
From the start of the Perný den route, traverse in the holes to the left to the hours. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čokl
From the north corner, up the wall to the left into a shallow corner. Up a small hawk to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šeredka
Via the small crack right of the 'Umaštěné dredy' route to the fore-summit, via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šeredka
Via the wall from the ledge directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šeredka
Along the crack from the N side to the fore-summit, via the route 'Umaštěné dredy' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Šeredka
From W via the crack to the ledge, traverse left to the edge (ring), new variation. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
Via the SW wall and left along the small ledges to the 1st ring. Aid climbing from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
Left of 'Ilja's Legacy' via the wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
Via the 'Ilja's Legacy' route above the 1st ring and directly via the wall to the 2nd and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šeredka
Via the crack from S to the fore-summit, via the wall, new variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
The ascent starts below the south edge. Via the wall, small ledges and the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
Ascent from the gendarme via the wall onto Družka (1st and 2nd ring), via the stemming… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
From the gendarme along the east edge to the hourglass, traverse left into the SE wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Krasavice
In the middle of the SE wall via the crack to the 1st ring, directly via the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krasavice
Via the 'Beauty Without Veil' route to the 2nd ring. Directly via the wall and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krasavice
From the terrace in the gendarme left of 'Beauty Without Veil' (belay ring) along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Krasavice
From the gendarme from the ledge at the north corner via the wall along the crack and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
From the gendarme via the right part of the NE wall over overhangs (2 rings), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
Via the route 'Beauty Without Veil' to the 1st ring and diagonally left via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Družka
From SW from the gendarme via the wall and along the small crack to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Krasavice
From the gendarme traverse right along the ledge to the crack in the valley wall. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Družka
Left of the east edge via the crack to the end, via the wall right behind the edge, five… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Družka
From the gendarme via the wall diagonally left to the balcony in the valley wall. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Družka
In the middle of the small uphill face via the wall (2 rings), higher up via stemming … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Družka
Via the wall to the first ring, via the slightly overhanging wall to the second and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Družka
Rock Climbing
6
Družka
Left on the uphill side via stemming to the ring and via the edge onto the ledge. Like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Chobotnice
In the left part of the NW wall via the crack and the wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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