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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Datlík
From the plateau side traverse the wall to the right to the edge (ring) and along it via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vepřík
Via the left valley crack to the balcony. Along the wall (ring) to the right and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Datlík
Along the wall along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Syčák
From the NE via a chimney to the pillars. Traverse the wall to the right to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Syčák
In the valley wall via a crack to the pillar. Along the wall to the left to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hrabě
In the SW wall along the notch to the ring, left along the edge via the wall (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Syčák
From the fore-rock on the SW side via a small crack and to the left along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrabě
From the plateau side via aid climbing and an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Škrhola
From the valley side via a chimney to the pillar. Overhang and crack to the fore-summit,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Škrhola
Via the NW crack to the pillar and via the Spiral route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Škrhola
In the NE wall via cracks and a crack (ring), higher up along the edge (2nd and 3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Škrhola
Via the plateau crack to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Holubička
Via Malinová route to Supa to a overgrown balcony. Overstep, small crack (ring), left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Holubička
To the right of the eastern edge via a chimney and crack to the fore-summit. Via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Holubička
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack and chimney to the fore-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Holubička
From the SE saddle via a squeeze and chimneys to the fore-summit. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Holubička
Via Malinová route to Supa (ring) to an overgrown balcony. Along the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Holubička
Via the NE crack to the 1st ring and along the wall (3 rings) to the balcony and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Holubička
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack over the overhang into the recess. Left crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
9/9+
Holubička
Along the edge to the right in the passage between Holubička and Supa 3Q below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Sup
In the corner between Supa and Sokol via the wall and corner (1st ring) below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Sup
From the N via a chimney between Sokol and Supa to the ledge to the 1st ring. Left beyond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sup
From the summit of Sokol via descent, overhang, small crack and gully to the plateau.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sup
From the SW between Supa and Holubička via a squeeze (1st ring) and left along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sup
From the passage between Supa and Holubička via a squeeze to the inner plateau. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sokol
In the left part of the valley wall via a crack and small chimney over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sokol
To the left of the SE chimney via the wall through the hole to the 1st ring (aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Sup
Rock Climbing
9/9+
Opavská
In the northern corner via a crack to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the left beyond the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Opavská
Start from the gorge between Opavská and Supa. Middle of the wall over the overhang (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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