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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Botanická
From the saddle between Botanicka and the Tower of American Cosmonauts, by wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Botanická
From the pillar of the Southeast Route, right by wall to the ledge and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Botanická
From SW by chimney to the pillar. Right by wall (1st ring), by gully and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Botanická
From SW by chimney between Botanicka and Demon to the ledge to the second abseil ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Démon
Right of the west corner by wall, small chimney and crack to the 1st ring. By crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Botanická
From the plateau side by corner to the small pillar. Building to the pine tree and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Démon
From the Ondatra plateau, by traverse into the NW wall of Demon (1st ring), by crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Botanická
SE wall left of "Hyacinth" to the small balcony to the 1st ring. Higher up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Démon
Via the Long Chimney route to Botanicka, to the ledge to the second abseil ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
Přeskok
Démon
From the summit of Botanicka, descend three meters by chimney, jump to the platform and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Démon
Via the Under Abseil route to the ledge to the second abseil ring. By gully and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Démon
Left of the NW edge by crack (aid climbing) to the ring. By crack and chimney to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Démon
From the Giant Hall (from NE) by inner chimney between Demon and Botanicka thirty meters… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Démon
From the Giant Corridor by crack in the NW wall (1st ring) under the overhang. By gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Démon
In the left part of the Giant Corridor by opposition (1st ring) higher up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Okenní
From the 2nd ring, diagonally right by wall into the gully and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Okenní
NE wall and broken crack to the ring. By wall over the overhang to the ledge, in it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Okenní
From the Giant Hall in the middle of the SE wall by crack to the ring. By crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Okenní
From the Giant Hall by crack at the east corner of the tower into the small cave. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Okenní
By chimney between Okenni and Ondatra into the widening (aid climbing) to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ondatra
In the left part of the NW wall from the through chimney by crack under the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Okenní
Through the center of the valley (NW) wall to the clock. By aid climbing, crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ondatra
From the plateau by wall along the south edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ondatra
From NW by chimney to the pillar and along the edge to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ondatra
Along the west edge to the pillar and along the edge to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ondatra
By wall along the rounded south edge to the pillar, along the edge to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ondatra
From the SW end of the Giant Corridor by opposition to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ondatra
Through the center of the narrow SW wall (ring) to the pillar and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Permoník
Through the left part of the SE wall diagonally left to the edge, along it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ondatra
By chimney between Ondatra and Okenni to the balcony. By crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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