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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Permoník
In the left part of the NW wall by crack to the ring, by wall left beyond the edge and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Permoník
Through the left part of the SE wall diagonally left to the edge, along it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Permoník
In the NW wall traverse right to the 1st ring, higher up the wall left to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nutrie
From the block on the SE side of the tower by step-over and right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nutrie
Right of the Valounboys route by chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Nutrie
By chimney between Nutrie and Ondatra to the ring. By small chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Nutrie
Along the left valley edge under the overhang, by crack to the end and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Nutrie
Right valley wall (3 rings), by opposition to the 4th ring and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mrázek
From the start of the Plateau Edge route, descend by chimney, right to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mrázek
In the left part of the south wall by crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Mrázek
In the valley wall through cracks over 2 rings and along the edge of the chimney (not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mrázek
From the edge (2 rings + one hour) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mrázek
By the wall along the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Morana
On the way, we will be afraid of the wedged block and traverse right along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Morana
From the Giant Hall, by crack and chimney to blocks. Through the chimney to pillars,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Morana
On the plateau side between Morana and Mrázek, through the chimney into a divergence,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morana
From the SW, from the through chimney via a corner crack to a wedged block. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Svobodník
From the plateau side, through the chimney to a block and along the edge to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Morana
By overhang on the W side of the tower into a ledge, traverse left into the chimney, 4m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mons Olympus
From the plateau inter-tower, by chimney and wall to the ring. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Balú
From the plateau side, by crack, chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balú
SW chimney to the pillar. Right along the wall and gully to the balcony. Along the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balú
From the gorge corner on the east side, by chimney to a block. By building to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balú
At the right plateau edge, by wall and crack to the ledge. Left into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šerchán
From the east corner, by crack to the 1st ring. Right by crack to the 2nd ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Šerchán
Along the valley overhanging edge, 6 rings to the pillar, then via the route Tiger's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šerchán
Via the route Fool's Dream to the pillar. Right along the wall along the edge (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šerchán
From the gorge on the NW side, by chimney to the pillar. Left by cracks to the end,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Džungle
From the square, by crack-chimney to the point and left along the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Maugli
In the inter-tower on the NE side of the tower, by chimney, opposition and wall right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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