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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Béda
The start is below the northern corner of the rock formation. By chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Béda
From the terrace, cross the chimney to the balcony, then go left and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the plateau gorge, by crack and chimney into the window. By gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Béda
Through a crack in the west face into a recess, an oblique crack to the ring, over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kejklíř
From the E edge, traverse over 2 rings to the west edge. Right into the crack and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kejklíř
Left of the east ridge by a squeeze, traverse the wall (ring) right to the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Kejklíř
From the south, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Smaik
Via the "Bergbabys Club Route" to the 2nd ring and right along the edge over 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kejklíř
From the plateau gorge, up the wall left behind the edge (ring) to the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Smaik
From E through a crack and wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Left to the 3rd ring and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Smaik
From the ring of the First Spring Falls route, up the crack to the 2nd ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Via the left valley crack and chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Smaik
Through the center of the valley face and a small chimney over the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Via the middle valley crack (2 rings) to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Smaik
From the second ring of the Mock's Kiss route directly up the wall to the 3rd ring and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Via the right valley overhanging crack and chimney to the pillar. Right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Smaik
From the plateau side, traverse left along the ledge and up the wall to the 'hours'. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7-/7
Smaik
Step across to the small balcony below the W edge. Along the edge (3 rings) to the false… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Páže
From the base of the W face, up the wall over 'hours' and one ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Smaik
Left on the plateau side via the crack to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Smaik
In the right part of the plateau face via the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Páže
At the right plateau edge onto the ledge, left and then a steep section below the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Prostředník
Up the plateau face left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Prostředník
In the fall line of the west ridge, up the crack directly to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Prostředník
On the SW side, up the wall (ring) left and along the west edge (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Tyrolačka
Right of the Descent Chimney route, via the crack and chimney to the flake. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brouček
Rock Climbing
4
Prostředník
Up the plateau face diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Brouček
Via the SW chimney to the balcony, then via the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tyrolačka
From SW via the overhanging corner and crack to the 1st ring. Via the gully to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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