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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Chrastítko
Up the upper wall, higher via a small crack to the ring (via a ladder from the seat) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kostěj
Left of the route Čáry máry, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kostěj
Middle of the valley wall along the flake to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kostěj
Left part of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kostěj
Right part of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Baba Jaga
Up the wall by the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Královna krásy
Middle of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Baba Jaga
Diagonally left up the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Královna krásy
Southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Královna krásy
Small corner and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Královna krásy
Middle of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Královna krásy
Right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Májovka
On the SE side from the intermediate tower, traverse the wall right to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Májovka
From the SE, up the chimney and over a large wedged block to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lokomotiva
Rock Climbing
4
Lokomotiva
From the east, up the crack-chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Májovka
Rock Climbing
5+
Skála Beaty
NE crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Skála Beaty
SW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Skála Beaty
Up the valley wall, crack, and slab (6 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gemini
At the right upper edge, up the wall to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skála Beaty
Right upper crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Skála Beaty
The start is at the right upper edge. Up the wall to the block and via a small crack or… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Gemini
In the NW wall, up the crack to the ledge, left via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Apollo
SW edge (3 rings) to Dýchánková c., then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Gemini
Via the route From the Gorge to Apollo to the large balcony. Left via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Apollo
From the SW, up the chimney for about ten meters, traverse the wall left and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
6
Dvojhlavá
On the ledge, traverse right and along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Apollo
Up the upper chimney to the large balcony. Via a ladder and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
From the ledge, diagonally left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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