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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Bradavice
To the right of the south edge, along the wall over the overhang behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Bradavice
To the left of the Gambrinus route, via the overhanging wall (1st ring) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bradavice
Through the center of the SE face to the 1st ring. Left along the wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Bradavice
In the right part of the valley's south face, over 4 rings (of which the 3rd ring is the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bradavice
Through the chimney of the Pre-Sport route to the sub-summit. Overhang to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bradavice
Through the upper chimney to the sub-summit, along the wall (artificial steps) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Bradavice
Rock Climbing
3
Mentolová
From the block of the Old Route, to the right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mentolová
From the North, along the wall and crack to the ledge. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kontušovka
Via a small column to the first ring, along the wall to the second and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kontušovka
From the upper side around the pine tree and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mentolová
From the upper side (from the terrace) along the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mentolová
From the West via the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Mentolová
In the left part of the south face, to the left to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Mokroušek
SE vegetated wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mokroušek
SW face (ring) and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Tři opilci
By jumping from the massifs near Mentolová. Rock Climbing
4
Mokroušek
On the upper side in the chimney via bridging and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Tři opilci
Through the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tři opilci
Through the inner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tři opilci
SW edge directly to the ring and further into the Chraplák route, then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tři opilci
From SW via the chimney (around the tree) 3m, then right along the edge ('clocks') to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ovtinka
Along the North face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Třetí
From the block along the East edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Třetí
The start is on the SW side between Třetí and Havran. Through the chimney above its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Třetí
From the south edge, along the wall to the left to the ring. Via a small column to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Třetí
To the right of the South edge via a small column to the 1st ring and along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Havran
From the summit of Třetí, descend along the wall into the chimney, by stepping over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Třetí
Step over from Havran. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Havran
From the chimney between Havran and Třetí, overhanging into the wall. To the left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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