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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Dvojhlavá
On the ledge, traverse right and along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
On the valley side of the tower, follow a system of chimneys to the highest block below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Dvojhlavá
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
Up the upper chimney to the block and right up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvojhlavá
From the upper gorge, up the chimney to the pillar. Traverse, up the wall along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvojhlavá
From the NE, up the chimney and along the pillars left to the ring. Via a ladder from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ikaros
Up the wall to the right of the eastern edge and via a notch to a small balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ikaros
Via Včelí cesta along the ramp to the valley side. Up the gully and wall to the gangway,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ikaros
Middle of the upper wall to the 1st ring, right up the wall and small gullies to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ikaros
From the ramp of Včelí (Špinavá) route, up the wall to the ledge. Easy standing and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Ikaros
In the left part of the upper wall via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ikaros
From the upper side, along the ramp left, up the wall to the pine tree (via a ladder) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertovy kameny
From the western fore-rock, up a short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brhlík
From the upper part, up the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Brhlík
Up the gully on the SE side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brhlík
From the W fore-rock, step over and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bouřlivá
From the balcony via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bouřlivá
Along the wall at the left valley edge to the holes and traverse right to the ledge. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertovy kameny
Through the chimney from the East. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čertovy kameny
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bouřlivá
In the left part of the south face, via a crack and small columns to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bouřlivá
In the upper wall via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bouřlivá
From the upper side to the left onto the ledge and along the wall to the balcony. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bradavice
To the right of the Pre-Sport route, along the wall to the sub-summit and via the Pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bradavice
The start is the same as the Compromise route. Traverse right along the wall (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bradavice
Start to the right of the 'Blind Birds' route. Bridging against the boulder. Overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bradavice
The start is below the left part of the valley wall. Through cracks (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Bradavice
In the right part of the NW face via a small column and wall to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Bradavice
To the left of the Gambrinus route, via the overhanging wall (1st ring) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Bradavice
To the right of the south edge, along the wall over the overhang behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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