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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Havran
From the summit of Třetí by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Havran
From NE via the chimney between Havran and Třetí to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havran
From the north corner along the wall along small cracks to the left onto a small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree to Marína' route to the balcony in the chimney. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kovář
Through the left part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree' route for 5 m, traverse right to the 1st ring. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kovář
Through the upper crack and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree to Marína' route to the balcony. Through the chimney and a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kovář
From the north (left from the valley side) along the slab to the right under the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kovář
Between Kovár and Marína, through the chimney and left up the wall to the west ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Marína
Via the 'Po flámu' route to the balcony. Traverse to the south ridge and along the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kovář
Along the west ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marína
From the north, up the cracks to the ledge, then via a small chimney and wall to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Marína
Via the 'Western' route to Kovadlina to the ledge. In the left part of the wall, an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Marína
From the summit of Havran, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Marína
From the NE, through the chimney between Marína and Havran to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marína
Through the chimney between Marína and Kovadlina, then a double crack and a crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the SW, left via the crack to the block. Up the wall (ring) to the ring of the 'Po… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Marína
From the chimney between Marína and Kovadlina, using opposition and up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the SW, via a double crack to the balcony in the chimney between Marína and Havran.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the start of the 'Po flámu' route, up the wall through the hole to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kovadlina
Through the valley chimney to the ledge and via the 'Western' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kovadlina
To the right of the start of "Western" up the wall to the balcony and right (crosses … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Inženýr – Kominík
The start is at the left upper edge. Left up the wall (1st ring) to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kovadlina
At the west corner, through the chimney and crack to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kovadlina
To the right of Buchara, via a gully to the ring. Up the small crack and wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kovadlina
From the 3rd ring, straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kovadlina
Up the valley wall over 3 rings, at the 3rd ring's ledge traverse right into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Kovadlina
Through the crack in Marína, then the chimney and opposition to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Palička
From the fore-rock on the SE side to the first and second rings, up the wall (3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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