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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sluníčko
By crack from NE to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Simpsonovi
From SW by wall into a crack, then to the balcony and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Simpsonovi
From S briefly by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sépie
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Sépie
Start on the wall from Chobotnice. Along the wall (2 rings), by crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Sanktuarium
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sanktuarium
Through the center of the wall via 4 rings and two pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
?
Sanktuarium
Start from the corner and then right to the ring on the edge, along it via the 2nd and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sanktuarium
From the gorge from Kejklíř, in the left part of the wall over a small overhang into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
2
Puklý démon
By stepping over from the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Puklý démon
By the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Puklý démon
Left in the SE wall via small pillars to the ring and via small pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Puklý démon
From NE traverse in the crack left past the edge into the SE wall, along it in ledges to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Puklý démon
By crack and wall from SE to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Palestra
Along the North ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Palestra
By chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Masiv za Mrázkem
Left of the large depression by crack and wall (1st ring). Along the wall (2nd ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Masiv vpravo od Veksláka
By chimney between Vekslák and the right massif 4 m, traverse right to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Buková stěna
Along the NE wall via 3 rings to the ledge (summit book). Descent left via overgrown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Boule
From the chimney to the SW ridge and along it via 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Boule
In the right part of the SW wall along the edge (5 rings) to the 6th ring, along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bojsova
From W by chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Bojsova
From the massif by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bojsova
Along the V edge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bar u Vočka
By finger crack to the small balcony and to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bojsova
From the right valley edge through the center of the northern wall via a hole (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bojsova
From S by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bar u Vočka
Start in the corner near Mons Olympus, briefly upwards and left to the balcony. Higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mys dobré naděje
From N by corner to the balcony and left by gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mys dobré naděje
Left of route no. 1 by small crack to the balcony and left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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