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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kovadlina
From the NE, through the chimney between Kovadlina and Marína to the ledge. Along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Kovadlina
Through the crack in Marína, then the chimney and opposition to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Perlík
Via the NE crack to the ledge and the 'Fat Trunk' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Palička
Up the valley wall diagonally right to the edge (1st ring). Along the edge and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Perlík
To the left of the north edge, via a crack over the overhang to the ring and left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Palička
At the south edge, via aid climbing and up the wall to the balcony. Up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Perlík
From the upper side, traverse left up the wall past the south edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Perlík
In the SW corner, up the wall from the right over the overhang to the ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Perlík
To the left of the south edge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Perlík
Along the north edge (ring) under the overhang and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Perlík
To the right of the east edge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Perlík
Directly up the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Strážce nahých
To the right of the Jánský Plakette route, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Strážce nahých
In the left part of the valley wall, through the crack and up the wall to the ring, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Říční
Up the center of the SW wall (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the 'Old Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Říční
Up the SW wall and crack to the ring. Via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Říční
Up the SE wall (2 rings) to the pre-summit. Traverse through the inner chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Strážce nahých
Up the wall along the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Ústředna
Briefly traverse between Mrázek and Ústředna. Step onto the pillar into the holes. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Říční
From the inner space, via the chimney or crack to the balcony. Up the wall (artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ústředna
From the upper side, left and up the slabby wall (3rd ring of route 6:0 to the ruins) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Televizní
In the wall towards Metuje, via the middle crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Televizní
To the left of Monoskop, via a crack to the 1st ring and further along the edge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Televizní
Rajbas edge (2 rings) to the right of Monoskop. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Televizní
Along the Rajbas edge opposite Wihan's Tower (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Sluníčko
In the NE wall, right via a horizontal small chimney and up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Televizní
Via the left crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2
Sluníčko
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sluníčko
Up the NW small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Simpsonovi
From SW by wall into a crack, then to the balcony and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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