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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Trojčata
Rock Climbing
4
Pašerák
Along the NW edge to the boulder and along the edge (circle) n.v. Rock Climbing
0
Bachyně
Up the wall near the N edge n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Bachyně
From the NE along the diagonal crack to the right to the ring and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
3
Bachyně
Straight up the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing
4
Bachyně
From the E edge with a steep ramp diagonally right and up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Velikonoční věž
From the plateau side traverse the wall left into the valley wall. Up the crack n.v. Rock Climbing
6+
Velikonoční věž
From the plateau side via an overhanging crack n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Panenská
UIAA cl. 3 From the E up the wall to the small balcony above the 1st ring. Along route no… Rock Climbing
5+
Panenská
UIAA cl. 5+ From the tourist path up the wall to the ring and up the wall along the right… Rock Climbing
2
Panenská
UIAA Grade 2. From W by crack between the tower and the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Barbucha
UIAA Grade 7. Up the valley wall (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
7-
Bába
UIAA Grade 7-. From N by crack to the ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring. By aid from… Rock Climbing
7+
Bába
UIAA Grade 7+. Start below the right part of the W wall. Up the wall (4 rings) along the… Rock Climbing
3
Bába
UIAA Grade 3. Up the wall from the nearby fore-rock. Rock Climbing
6
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 6. From the outer edges, descend via two plateaus. By overhang and the left… Rock Climbing
7
Dědek
UIAA Grade 7. Up the valley chimney and wall (from the chimney by aid) to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Dědek
UIAA Grade 3. From the nearby gorge by corner twin crack to a small plateau. Along the… Rock Climbing
7+
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 7+. By route no. 6 to the small balcony. Up the wall to the ring, down to the… Rock Climbing
7-
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 7-. From the tourist path by corner crack (2 rings) to the pillar. (By aid)… Rock Climbing
5
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 5. From SW from the cave by chimney to the saddle. By crack to the small… Rock Climbing
7+
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 7+. From W by chimney and crack right to the 1st ring. By crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 5. From NE by the right chimney inside the pillar to its top. Descend to the… Rock Climbing
7+
Věž přátelství
UIAA Grade 7+. Below the right part of the valley pillar, up the wall to the small… Rock Climbing
8+
Katedrála
UIAA Grade 8+. Up the valley wall (8 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
9+
Katedrála
Up the left part of the valley wall over 8 bolts to the last ring of the Inquisition… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Pilíř
Up the valley edge (7 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Koloseum
Like the Gladiator route to the 1st bolt, from there directly up the wall (3 bolts), left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9+
Koloseum
Up the valley wall over the ring to the bolt, left to the 2nd bolt and up the wall (3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Zahradník
UIAA Grade 4. From E over the overhang and along the edge to the balcony. By route no. 1… Rock Climbing

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