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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Hradní věž
UIAA class 6-. Left/Naturally from route no. 1 via wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hradní věž
UIAA class 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradní věž
UIAA class 6-. From the SE via cracks and wall to the ring. Right via the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hradní věž
UIAA class 6-. At the right valley corner via cracks to a platform below the W edge. Via… Rock Climbing
6
Hradní věž
UIAA class 6. In the right part of the W corner via a finger crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Věž Ládi Šolce
UIAA class 7-. Via valley crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+
Aládin
UIAA class 8+. From the 2nd ring of route no. 1 via wall (3 rings) below the overhang and… Rock Climbing
6
Chobotnice
Via Markéta chimney, la femme fatale directly into the gap between towers and by crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jezinka
cl. UIAA 6 From the summit of Strašidlo (Ghost) in the ledges traverse down to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6+
Jezinka
cl. UIAA 6+ From the summit of Strašidlo (Ghost) up the wall right and by crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Strašidlo
cl. UIAA 3 From SW by corner into the chimney and by it to the terrace. Along the NE edge… Rock Climbing
5
Strašidlo
cl. UIAA 5 After 5m from the chimney of route no. 1 down to the edge and along it (ring)… Rock Climbing
6+
Jezinka
cl. UIAA 6+ From the summit of Strašidlo (Ghost) up the wall to the ring and by crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Pytlák
cl. UIAA 6 By crack in the valley wall to the ring. Left wall under the overhang, right… Rock Climbing
4
Pomník padlých pstruhů
By crack from the stream to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Pomník padlých pstruhů
Through the right part of the plateau wall via the small chimney/gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Polednice
On the SE side of the tower by opposition against a block, then over the crest and right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pomník padlých pstruhů
By the plateau (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Pomník padlých pstruhů
To the right of the East corner via the small chimney/gully and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Kazatelna
To the right of route 'Přes řetízek' (Over the Chain) over water into the crack and by it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Kazatelna
By the right NW crack over the overhang to the pulpit. By build-up (aid/stacking) and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Kazatelna
Through the middle of the plateau wall (from E) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kazatelna
By the left NW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Kazatelna
From NW by the right crack (ring) and up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Kazatelna
From NW by opposition against the small pillar and by wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Kazatelna
Along the plateau edge and overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kazatelna
To the right of route "Široká spára" (Wide Crack) by build-up/aid and crack (2 rings), in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šaman
By NE crack to the pillar. By gully (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
4
Šaman
In the left part of the NW wall by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Šaman
From the plateau (SE) side left up the wall to the pre-summit and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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