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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Kohoutek
From SW by chimney between Kohoutek (Faucet) and Mr. Smaik's Boiler to the crack and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kohoutek
To the left of the Second Variant in the corner by chimney to the block. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kohoutek
At the East corner by crack and chimney to the block. Rock Climbing
2
Kohoutek
SE crack to the block and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jidáš
From N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kohoutek
NW chimney and higher by bridging/stemming to the block. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Matakyt
From NE by crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8-/8
Matakyt
Along the north edge by wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Palice
Right upland (NW) crack and chimney to the sub-summit. Left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Palice
NW crack to the balcony and corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Matakyt
From the valley side (from the tourist path) via a broken crack to the ring (by standing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Palice
Left upland (NW) crack to the pillar, left by crack to the ledge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Palice
SW chimney into the cave and wall left to the ring. Below the ring, traverse by wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Páteční
From E (from the tourist path) by standing and broken crack to the small balcony, by… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Prdítko
Valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Herečka
From NW by crack (ring) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Čapka
SE crack to the balcony (ring) and by standing to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hranolek
Valley (SW) wall to the ring, wall left to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
4
Hranolek
Upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Džbán
In the right part of the NW wall, through the corner chimney to the pillar. Aid climbing …
6
Džbán
From the SE, by crack through the widening to the ring (aid climbing from sit harness)…
5+
Džbán
In the left part of the NW wall, by double crack (ring) and chimney to the 2nd ring. By…
6
Cahounek
Right of route "Hedgehog's Torment", by crack over the overhang (ring) to overgrown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Cahounek
Through the chimney from the NE (opposite the cave in Eagle's Nest), left by broken crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Cahounek
Up the Southwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Orlí hnízdo
By the Old Route under the enclosed inner space. Exit left into the SW wall, stemming… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Cahounek
In the middle of the plateau wall, traverse left and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Orlí hnízdo
From the chimney from the south, by overhanging crack over the ring into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Overhang
6-
Orlí hnízdo
From S, by crack to the small cave and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4-
Orlí hnízdo
From the NE, by the left chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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