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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Rybana
Via a variant of the Old Way to Vinnetou into the gully between the towers, via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Rybana
Via the chimney of the Variant of the Old Way to Vinnetou into the wide chimney/stemming,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
9+
Homole
Up the wall to the left along the east edge (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Babiččina lenoška
From the block on the SE side, up the wall to the 1st ring. Aid climbing from a sling and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Babiččina lenoška
From the west via the chimney to the block. Via a system of cracks (ring) and the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Babiččina lenoška
From the NE via the crack to the block (aid climbing) and up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Dědečkova předkožka
From the east edge up the wall to the right (ring) and along the rounded edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Houbová
From Grandmother's Armchair via the small chimney/groove and the overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Houbová
From the SW via a wide chimney/stemming against the block, mantle/overhang into the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Dědečkova předkožka
Up the right part of the plateau (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Návěs
SE wall to the south edge and along it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Návěs
Through the middle of the SE wall via the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Luňákovo hnízdo
In the left part of the valley wall via the slanted chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Luňákovo hnízdo
1.5m right of the "Left Valley Chimney" via the crack, higher up as "Left Valley Chimney"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Luňákovo hnízdo
Up the right plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Luňákovo hnízdo
Via the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Luňákovo hnízdo
Up the left upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Luňákovo hnízdo
Up the NE wall diagonally left along the ledges to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Luňákovo hnízdo
Start as "Return of the Birds of Prey" and directly up the crack to the ring. Briefly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Yamaha
In the middle of the NE face, up the chimney through the constriction to the pillar. Via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Yamaha
Up the NE chimney and crack (ring) to the pillar. Via the Walkman route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Yamaha
Up the right part of the NE face and crack to the ring. To the right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Yamaha
In the left part of the NE face, up the crack to the end at the ring. From the right, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Yamaha
Up the vertical twin crack in the short east face via the hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Robin Hood
To the left of the shed, up the face to the ring. Up the face and crack into the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Robin Hood
From the E, up the chimney and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Robin Hood
On the NE side, with artificial aid from the roof to the ring, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Robin Hood
From the path, up the gully and through Sherwood Forest to the balcony. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Robin Hood
To the right of the N edge, up the diagonal crack to the 1st ring and along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Václav
From the NW, up the crack left to the small balcony. Up the face diagonally right (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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