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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Václav
At the western corner (to the right of Správcova) through the corner under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Václav
From the NW, up the crack left to the small balcony. Up the face diagonally right (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Václav
From the valley from Mezáč, between the pillars to the crack in the middle of the east… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Fefík
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Fefík
From the SW, up the face (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Fefík
Up the chimney from the north to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Fefík
From the south, up the short upland face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kvakin
Up the small face from the south. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Kvakin
From the north edge, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Kvakin
Up the crack from the west to the ledge and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Krajní
From the SE via the chimney to the pillar, then aid climbing and via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Krajní
To the left of the 'Vzpomínka na Milana Enta' route via the crack (ring) to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Krajní
To the right of the start of the Old Route via the chimney to the ring and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Krajní
Via the left crack to the saddle and via the 'Snadno lezitelná' (Easily Climbable) route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krajní
Via the crack to the 1st ring, up the wall to the 2nd and 3rd rings. Aid climbing from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Krajní
At the western corner of the rock formation by aid climbing, up the wall to the ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krajní
From the NE via the chimney to the 1st ring and via cracks to the saddle. To the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Lehátko
Up the wall from the west. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Krajní
Via the Old Route to the saddle. To the right via the crack to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krajní
From the SW, from the alcove between Krajní and the pillar, via the chimney and crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Lehátko
From the SW via a small chimney and crack to the 1st ring, up the wall to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Lehátko
Via the crack from the NE (ring) and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Lehátko
Up the wall from the south. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Cestovka
Via the East chimney to the ring of the Ádrtour route, then via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Cestovka
Completely to the left on the NE side under the overhang, via the crack going left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Cestovka
From the north (from the passage), via a wide crack to the pillar (ring), to the left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Cestovka
From the east via a chimney-double crack and further via a crack to the pre-summit, then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
1
Cestovka
From the SW up the wall overgrown with roots to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Cestovka
From the west via a double crack in the corner, via a crack to a small saddle and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Cestovka
Via the chimney from the SW and further up the wall of the Ádr tour route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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